Occasion: Brunch with Ben and Rebecca in our old law school stomping grounds
Location: Kitchenette on Amsterdam between 122nd and 123rd (kitchenetterestaurant.com) [Note: another location downtown on Chambers]
Edibles: lumberjack breakfast for me, with berry pancakes, eggs, turkey sausage; omelet for Rebecca; blueberry French toast and a Bloody Mary (an unusual one made with white wine and wasabi) for Ben
Musings: Usually crazy crowded, we inadvertently hit the sweet spot after the regular semester but before summer session when Columbia is deserted.
Kitchenette's food appeals to that inexplicable Southern belle in me. (Also the lumberjack in me, I guess.) This plate made me SO happy when it arrived:
The pancakes were thick and fluffy and the turkey sausage was a nice departure from the usual breakfast meats. Two minor dings: Ben's French toast was too dense and cake-y for my taste, and the cheese grits that came with Rebecca's omelet were deemed too salty by her and too thick by me.
The bakery case is worth a look-see. While waiting for Ben and Rebecca to arrive, it took everything I had not to buy a whole pie to take home (knowing from experience that I would not have the room to eat any dessert). Dinner here is likewise excellent. I'm particularly fond of the turkey meatloaf, buttermilk-honey fried chicken and mac and cheese.
June 5, 2010
June 3, 2010
Crooked Knife
Occasion: Welcoming Winnie back to NYC, and to the east side!
Location: Crooked Knife on 30th between Park and Madison (thecrookedknife.com)
Edibles: a burger for me; fish and chips for Winnie
Musings: A lackluster and expensive pub. The burger had plenty of meat, but was totally unseasoned. Just a hop and a skip away, Shake Shack is vastly superior.
Location: Crooked Knife on 30th between Park and Madison (thecrookedknife.com)
Edibles: a burger for me; fish and chips for Winnie
Musings: A lackluster and expensive pub. The burger had plenty of meat, but was totally unseasoned. Just a hop and a skip away, Shake Shack is vastly superior.
Labels:
$$-under25,
burger,
Manhattan-east,
midtown,
multi-cuisine,
restaurant
June 2, 2010
Fig & Olive
Occasion: Post-ballet (Don Quixote) with Brigid
Location: Fig & Olive on Lex between 62nd and 63rd (figandolive.com) [Note: two other Manhattan locations]
Edibles: I had the crostini trio (crab with lemon cilantro mayo; salmon and ricotta; bell pepper and goat cheese) and the beef carpaccio; Brigid had the tuna carpaccio and a side of sautéed spinach
Musings: The salmon crostini was bland and oddly slimy. The roasted pepper and goat cheese one was nice, but the crab one was SUPERB - I wish I'd just gotten three of those. The carpaccio was tasty but very insubstantial, sort of like the illusion of eating beef.
Good eats and conveniently cross-town from Lincoln Center, though the kitchen closes too early for it to be a good after-theatre place. We barely squeaked in after an average-length ballet with a 7:30 curtain. No way you'd make it after an 8:00 opera.
Location: Fig & Olive on Lex between 62nd and 63rd (figandolive.com) [Note: two other Manhattan locations]
Edibles: I had the crostini trio (crab with lemon cilantro mayo; salmon and ricotta; bell pepper and goat cheese) and the beef carpaccio; Brigid had the tuna carpaccio and a side of sautéed spinach
Musings: The salmon crostini was bland and oddly slimy. The roasted pepper and goat cheese one was nice, but the crab one was SUPERB - I wish I'd just gotten three of those. The carpaccio was tasty but very insubstantial, sort of like the illusion of eating beef.
Good eats and conveniently cross-town from Lincoln Center, though the kitchen closes too early for it to be a good after-theatre place. We barely squeaked in after an average-length ballet with a 7:30 curtain. No way you'd make it after an 8:00 opera.
Labels:
$$$-under50,
European-cuisine,
French,
Italian,
Manhattan-east,
restaurant,
uptown
May 30, 2010
Deadliest Catch
Airs on Discovery Channel on Tuesdays at 9:00


My brother was already an occasional watcher, but I got totally hooked on this show! Narrated by Discovery hunk Mike Rowe, it's just naturally action-packed and dramatic. (Did you know that fatalities for a season of crab-fishing average out to person a week?!) And it gets bonus awesome points for playing Bon Jovi during title credits.
As a family we watched something like 15-20 episodes during the long weekend Deadliest Catch marathon. Yes, we are a family of nerds.
As a family we watched something like 15-20 episodes during the long weekend Deadliest Catch marathon. Yes, we are a family of nerds.
We also love us some crab. Dungeness is great almost year-round in Vancouver, but Alaskan King crab season is truly legendary. The price for these monster crabs - live in tanks in most restaurants - dips below $20/lb, sometimes even below $15/lb, and Chinese restaurants do a particularly tasty preparation with tons of garlic called suan long. YUM!
Labels:
CAN-Vancouver,
seafood,
tv
Broder's Pasta Bar
Occasion: Family dinner
Location: Broder's on Penn Ave South in Minneapolis (broders.com)
Edibles: clams in white wine; sausage pizza; caprese salad; pasta with salad greens, asparagus, chicken, mascarpone and balsamic; lobster fettucine; pappardelle with wild boar ragu; lemon ricotta cheesecake and tiramisu for dessert
Musings: I would totally eat at Broder's if it was in New York - and that's pretty much my highest compliment for out-of-town eats. The restaurant was bustling and close to full occupancy even at 5:30, and it's not hard to see why. The décor was clean and modern with some kitschy touches - I loved the metal collanders used as lampshades. The prices were more than reasonable and every dish was outstanding.
The pizza had a wonderful yeasty crust and I couldn't resist a second slice. My favorite of the pastas (all fresh and homemade) was the pappardelle, but an honorable mention goes to the chicken one. It had a lot of surprising ingredients that could have disastrous together but which, instead, melded together into a very unusual and refreshing dish. A great gastronomic mind conceived that dish.
Highly recommended!!
The pizza had a wonderful yeasty crust and I couldn't resist a second slice. My favorite of the pastas (all fresh and homemade) was the pappardelle, but an honorable mention goes to the chicken one. It had a lot of surprising ingredients that could have disastrous together but which, instead, melded together into a very unusual and refreshing dish. A great gastronomic mind conceived that dish.
Highly recommended!!
Labels:
$$-under25,
European-cuisine,
hall-of-fame,
Italian,
MN,
restaurant
May 29, 2010
La Belle Vie
Occasion: Family dinner
Location: La Belle Vie on Groveland Ave in Minneapolis (labellevie.us)
Edibles: five-course tasting menu - gougères and a tuna amuse bouche to kick off; scallop crudo with fennel; skate with an artichoke ravioli; poussin with fava beans and ramps; a Mediterranean-y lamb dish; mascarpone cake with rhubarb compote for dessert, and petit fours
Musings: Tasty, but another restaurant for the anorexic model in your life. The portions were teeny tiny - I've never before, for example, been served a single poussin breast. There was between two and three bites of every protein. At $65 dollars a head, they really should be more generous with their serving sizes.
Dining room was a bit stiff and formal, the sort of place you might take your grandmother for a special occasion. The bar / lounge looked a little livelier, but only works for smaller parties. As I said, the food was good and certainly elegantly prepared but I was disappointed with the overall experience.
Labels:
$$$$-over50,
European-cuisine,
French,
MN,
restaurant
Baker's Square
Occasion: Search for nostalgic pie from my dad's student days / post-hike snack
Location: Baker's Square on W. 66th in Minneapolis
Edibles: pie all around - Hawaiian strawberry for my dad, blueberry for my mom, key lime for my brother, cherry for my sister, and strawberry cream cheese pie for me
Musings: My top priority for this Minneapolis trip was to get some of this pie, if it was still around to be had:
(Yep, that's me, circa 1982. A pie fiend since toddlerhood.)
Didn't help matters that my dad can't remember the name or location of the place. An old geezer running the tram at Lake Harriet thought it might be Baker's Square, so we checked it out.
Sadly, I don't think this is the place. You walk in, and it doesn't even smell like a bakery, i.e., like you could gain 5 lbs just from inhaling deeply. It's a Denny's-type chain and, while the pie was okay, it was hardly a slice of heaven that a person remembers fondly thirty years later.
Pie from my childhood, are you still out there somewhere?
Location: Baker's Square on W. 66th in Minneapolis
Edibles: pie all around - Hawaiian strawberry for my dad, blueberry for my mom, key lime for my brother, cherry for my sister, and strawberry cream cheese pie for me
Musings: My top priority for this Minneapolis trip was to get some of this pie, if it was still around to be had:
(Yep, that's me, circa 1982. A pie fiend since toddlerhood.)
Didn't help matters that my dad can't remember the name or location of the place. An old geezer running the tram at Lake Harriet thought it might be Baker's Square, so we checked it out.
Sadly, I don't think this is the place. You walk in, and it doesn't even smell like a bakery, i.e., like you could gain 5 lbs just from inhaling deeply. It's a Denny's-type chain and, while the pie was okay, it was hardly a slice of heaven that a person remembers fondly thirty years later.
Pie from my childhood, are you still out there somewhere?
Labels:
$-under10,
dessert,
MN,
NorthAmerican-cuisine
May 28, 2010
Zelo
Occasion: Dinner with my sister
Location: Zelo on Nicollet Mall in Minneapolis (zelomn.com) - blog goes on the road!
Edibles: fried calamari app to share; my sister had a salad with shrimp, goat cheese and pine nuts; I had linguine with local ham and baby peas in a cream sauce
Musings: With family members flying in from LAX, EWR and YVR, logistical difficulties were bound to arise. My flight and my sister's landed mostly on schedule, but the folks and my brother got seriously delayed out of Vancouver. So much for a family dinner on Friday. Still, after a lunch / snack consisting of airplane pretzels and a little container of bland pasta salad smuggled on board from my office cafeteria, I was determined to have a nice dinner. And a big glass of wine. (Traveling on a long weekend BLOWS.)
The lady at our hotel's front desk recommended this place. Certainly not my first choice for local info, but Zelo turned out to be pretty decent.
[Incidentally, I have yet to find a good shorthand way to describe exactly what it is I'm looking for. Namely, a place that's nice but not too fancy or expensive, where the menu is small and seasonal and the chef is creative, but not weird, and cares deeply about what comes out of his kitchen. What I'd like to say - but can't because it would make me sound like a tool - is, "I live in New York City. I know from good food."]
The Italian was solid. The serving of calamari was huge and came with a nice garlicky aioli for dipping. The half portion of my pasta was plenty, as is almost always the case with cream-based sauces. My sister's salad was a little puny, but the shrimp were good.
Here's the unexpected part. We looked over the menu to see what we could get for takeout for my parents. "Anything Asian?" asked my sister. "I doubt it - this is an Italian restaurant," I replied. But lo and behold, there was a Thai shrimp noodle dish and an Asian sesame salad with chicken. My mom quite liked both. Not a bad start to our trip.
Labels:
$$-under25,
European-cuisine,
Italian,
MN,
restaurant
May 27, 2010
Top Chef Masters Season 2, Ep. 8
Original Air Date: May 26, 2010
1) Complete failure of common sense in the Quickfire. Jonathan, Asian recipes generally do not use butter. Susan, chasseur is a French sauce. It's got mirepoix, parsley, salt and pepper. That's six ingredients without even thinking. Susur, garlic is not a common ingredient in classic stocks and sauces. Also, why struggle over the kind of oil in the chasseur when you hadn't even named the veal?
2) A soy sauce-glazed egg served with coconut jam on toast seems schizo to me. The inspiration was Aphrodite, Susan, not Janus.
3) The show could have come up with some more interesting gods than Poseidon, Dionysus and Aphrodite. Imagine being asked to cook a dish based on Terpsichore, the muse of dance, or Nike, the spirit of victory.
1) Complete failure of common sense in the Quickfire. Jonathan, Asian recipes generally do not use butter. Susan, chasseur is a French sauce. It's got mirepoix, parsley, salt and pepper. That's six ingredients without even thinking. Susur, garlic is not a common ingredient in classic stocks and sauces. Also, why struggle over the kind of oil in the chasseur when you hadn't even named the veal?
2) A soy sauce-glazed egg served with coconut jam on toast seems schizo to me. The inspiration was Aphrodite, Susan, not Janus.
3) The show could have come up with some more interesting gods than Poseidon, Dionysus and Aphrodite. Imagine being asked to cook a dish based on Terpsichore, the muse of dance, or Nike, the spirit of victory.
Labels:
tv
May 25, 2010
Top Chef Masters Season 2, Ep. 7
Original Air Date: May 19, 2010
1) A Quickfire/Elimination sweep for Susan! Girl power!
2) I think guest judge Jason Lezak is awesome (more below) and I'd totally make out with him - swimmers are HOT. But what does he know about judging food, exactly?
3) Susur, this whole "I don't know tailgating" routine is crap. Asians have great streetfood traditions. There's no excuse for that weird Austrian dumpling you decided to make.
4) Tony seemed pretty bitter about his loss. I'm sure the pizza was good and all, but other than making the dough, he didn't really cook anything. It was the right call.
1) A Quickfire/Elimination sweep for Susan! Girl power!
2) I think guest judge Jason Lezak is awesome (more below) and I'd totally make out with him - swimmers are HOT. But what does he know about judging food, exactly?
3) Susur, this whole "I don't know tailgating" routine is crap. Asians have great streetfood traditions. There's no excuse for that weird Austrian dumpling you decided to make.
4) Tony seemed pretty bitter about his loss. I'm sure the pizza was good and all, but other than making the dough, he didn't really cook anything. It was the right call.
Aside: I saw Jason Lezak swim for gold in Beijing. He swam anchor for the 4x100 freestyle relay team and heroically made up almost a body length's deficit on the French. That's them, neck-in-neck in lanes 4 and 5, just before the 0.08-second US win.
Lezak's on the far left. He totally deserves all four of the gold medals for the relay team. Incidentally, Michael Phelps (standing beside him) swam first leg and touched in sixth out of eight teams. Duffer.
Labels:
tv
May 21, 2010
Billy's Bakery
Location: 9th Ave between 21st and 22nd (billysbakerynyc.com)
Musings: For the price of Jill's one marshmallow at Recette, I got a massive wedge of red velvet cake, two cupcakes for the road, and a café au lait. The fluffy, whipped frosting on Billy's red velvet isn't quite as good as Buttercup's dense and unctuous version (cream-cheesy goodness!), but the size of the slice is generous to say the least and cake is nice and moist.
Incidentally, you can get an un-frosted cupcake for about half the price of the frosted ones. For those of you who consider this blasphemy, A) I intended to eat them for breakfast the next day and it's easier on the conscience without frosting, and B) I ended up having a few leftover dabs from the red velvet cake that I was able to repurpose.
Recette
Occasion: Dinner with Jill and Elizabeth
Location: Recette on W 12th between Hudson and Greenwich St (recettenyc.com)
Edibles: I had the pea soup to start and the veal main; Jill had the arugula salad to start, the same main and the s'more dessert; Elizabeth started with a cheese plate and had the branzino
Musings: I'm sure a lot of people love this place, but it's not for me. For one thing, it's surprisingly loud for such a small space with no music (that I can remember). We were screaming at each other just to be heard.
As for the food, keep Recette in mind if you find yourself dating an anorexic model. The portions are positively miniscule (though what there was, was delicious). The $28 veal dish - a duo of tenderloin wrapped in Parma ham and braised cheek - was about six bites of food. Elizabeth's branzino was the size of playing card, and about half an inch thick. Jill's $8 dessert was, no exaggeration, a single brûléed marshmallow, a sliver of tuile cookie and a quenelle of ice-cream.
We all walked out still hungry.
Labels:
$$$-under50,
downtown,
Manhattan-west,
NorthAmerican-cuisine,
restaurant
May 20, 2010
Martha Stewart's Cookies
by the Editors of Martha Stewart Living
My review: 4/5 stars
I'm SO not a baker, but even I'm mesmerized by this cookbook. Gorgeous photographs and mouth-watering ideas.
A bunch that caught my eye on a flip-through: Gingersnap palmiers. Cream cheese pinwheels. Cornmeal thyme cookies. Cashew caramel cookies. Whole wheat date bars. Oatmeal applesauce cookies. Chewy molasses crinkles. Apricot windows. Pistachio lemon drops. Iced hermits. Hazelnut orange shortbread. Maple pecan shortbread. Lime meltaways. Bourbon currant cookies. Rocky Ledge bars with butterscotch chips, mini marshmallows and chocolate chunks. Lemon madeleines. Pumpkin cookies with brown butter icing. Carrot cake cookie sandwiches with cream cheese frosting. Raspberry honey financiers. Peanut butter whoopie pies. Fresh peach drop cookies. Chocolate pretzels. Earl Grey tea cookies. Chocolate black pepper cookies. Butter twists. Cassis crisps. Alfajores de dulce de leche. Rugelach fingers.
YUM! Yining, when's the next cookie bake-a-thon?
My review: 4/5 stars
I'm SO not a baker, but even I'm mesmerized by this cookbook. Gorgeous photographs and mouth-watering ideas.
A bunch that caught my eye on a flip-through: Gingersnap palmiers. Cream cheese pinwheels. Cornmeal thyme cookies. Cashew caramel cookies. Whole wheat date bars. Oatmeal applesauce cookies. Chewy molasses crinkles. Apricot windows. Pistachio lemon drops. Iced hermits. Hazelnut orange shortbread. Maple pecan shortbread. Lime meltaways. Bourbon currant cookies. Rocky Ledge bars with butterscotch chips, mini marshmallows and chocolate chunks. Lemon madeleines. Pumpkin cookies with brown butter icing. Carrot cake cookie sandwiches with cream cheese frosting. Raspberry honey financiers. Peanut butter whoopie pies. Fresh peach drop cookies. Chocolate pretzels. Earl Grey tea cookies. Chocolate black pepper cookies. Butter twists. Cassis crisps. Alfajores de dulce de leche. Rugelach fingers.
YUM! Yining, when's the next cookie bake-a-thon?
May 18, 2010
Top Chef Masters Season 2, Ep. 6
Original Air Date: May 12, 2010
1) Tony, you had me at "fried bacon honey pizza dough."
2) I didn't know that Paul McCartney is the reason why Lisa's a vegetarian. I do remember the "There's enough gazpacho for everyone!" episode and quote it a lot.
3) What was up with the creepy taxidermied animals on the cart?!
4) This is what I know about the exotic items:
- Geoduck: Delicious, if tremendously odd-looking. I always thought it
looked like a clam that tried to eat an elephant, but couldn't quite manage
the trunk. I would have picked this for sure. You barely need to cook
geoduck - a quick dunk in boiling water, some microgreens, a little
dressing and you have a fantastic salad. I'm really surprised Marcus
bungled it to the degree he did.
- Sea cucumber: A pain to prepare and tastes like fish-flavored Jell-O. The
standard Chinese preparation involves literally days of soaking and
blanching and peeling. I'm impressed with Susan's tempura idea; I've
never seen it done like that before.
- Black chicken: Flavorful but pretty scrawny. Mostly used to make chicken
broth / stock. Interesting that both Rick and Susur decided to go French
with their ingredients.
5) To answer Jay's question of why someone would try to eat a crazy-looking animal, the answer is obvious - they were very, very hungry. You can see some of this in French cuisine. I mean, escargots? At some point, a guy looked at a snail and thought, "If I cook it with lots of garlic, maybe it won't be so bad."
6) I usually want a big plate of whatever Jonathan cooks but versatility is definitely not his strength. (Nor is plating.)
Labels:
tv
May 12, 2010
Congee Village
Occasion: Comfort food takeout
Location: Congee Village on Allen between Delancey and Broome (sunsungroup.com/congeevillage)
Edibles: Five Spices duck; pork and preserved egg congee; fish congee
Musings: Cold weather + a touch of the sniffles = Congee Time! I can make the plain version for myself, using a short-grained Japanese rice. But today I was craving the savory Cantonese version, which has an altogether different texture. (OK, it's not unlike a bowl of paste. But be open-minded - oatmeal and grits are in the same goopy family.)
The pork congee was fine but the fish one had tons of little bones in it - I found one in almost every other bite. I think they used trimmings, or parts near the belly. Poor form there. The duck was not roasted, as I expected, but rather braised in a salty soy sauce-based broth. Didn't come close to matching Hing Won's.
Can't argue with the prices - $2.95 for a quart of the pork and $3.95 for the fish - but it will obviously take some more trial and error before I get the hang of their menu.
Labels:
$-under10,
Asian-cuisine,
Chinese,
downtown,
Manhattan-east,
restaurant
May 11, 2010
Mmmm... my mom's hot toddy
A cockail and a cure-all. (Don't freak out when you get to the third ingredient - my mom didn't start making this for us until we were, like, in college.)juice of 1 whole lemon (just half if it's a really gigantic lemon)
honey to taste (I'm pretty impervious to acid so I use about 1 tbsp)
a good belt of whiskey or cognac
hot water to fill the mug
I like to throw the lemon husks into the mug - the hot water releases some of the oils in the zest. While it's hardly modern medicine, the lemon is a dose of vitamin C, honey is soothing for the throat and the booze is a helping hand to a good night's sleep.
Labels:
recipe
May 10, 2010
99¢ Fresh Pizza
Occasion: Snack time! Any time!
Location: 99¢ Fresh Pizza on 34th between 2nd and 3rd
Edibles: pizza, natch
Musings: This place is not good news for my waistline. Walking past it four to eight times a day + the no-brainer price of 99¢ = a LOT of pizza. I have eaten more pizza since this place opened a few weeks ago than I probably ate in the entirety of 2009.
I think this pizza is as good as anything else you can find in the vicinity for three to four times the price but you need to manage your expectations, as we lawyers would say. The crust is bready and chewy (though I think they should keep it in the oven longer to develop some crunch), the cheese is decent, the service is fast. Business is brisk so the pizza's usually pretty fresh.
You can get toppings for 50¢ apiece, but that seems to undermine the whole point of 99¢ pizza. I load on the free "toppings" of parmesan, black pepper and Italian herbs from the little shakers. Nostalgia - just like I used to do as a student...
Labels:
$-under10,
Manhattan-east,
midtown,
pizza,
streetfood
Top Chef Masters Season 2, Ep. 5
Original Air Date: May 5, 2010
1) I always wonder what kind of couple would choose to have their big fancy wedding catered in a day by reality show contestants.
2) Based on what they said (groom - meat and potatoes; bride - French and Asian), choosing the bride seemed to be a no-brainer. She's giving you a lot more latitude. Plus, there's no way you're going to let Susur cook his strongest cuisine if you can help it. BUT... I think Blue Team failed to account for the fact that the bride is always harder to please than the groom. The teams ended up being pretty evenly restricted, I thought.
3) Ballsy decision on Jody's part to go with lamb when the bride specifically said she didn't like it. But, then again, the judges' marks count for 75% of the total score.
4) Even before seeing the finished product, I could have told you that Jonathan Waxman wasn't the person to task with decorating the cake - his plates are always super sloppy. That cake looked like it had been trampled, or made by a 3-year-old. The couple should have gone with Susur's croquembouche for the cake pictures. (Incidentally, one way Blue Team could have made a gorgeous and easy wedding cake was to just ice it white and decorate it with fresh flowers.)
5) Why was the carrot cake green? Is that something BC hippies do?
6) To answer your bf's suggestion of marriage with a "F*ck you!" - that's pretty badass. Is Susur's gf really as blunt and salty as he makes her out to be? If so, I want to hang out with her. I bet Tony Bourdain would too.
1) I always wonder what kind of couple would choose to have their big fancy wedding catered in a day by reality show contestants.
2) Based on what they said (groom - meat and potatoes; bride - French and Asian), choosing the bride seemed to be a no-brainer. She's giving you a lot more latitude. Plus, there's no way you're going to let Susur cook his strongest cuisine if you can help it. BUT... I think Blue Team failed to account for the fact that the bride is always harder to please than the groom. The teams ended up being pretty evenly restricted, I thought.
3) Ballsy decision on Jody's part to go with lamb when the bride specifically said she didn't like it. But, then again, the judges' marks count for 75% of the total score.
4) Even before seeing the finished product, I could have told you that Jonathan Waxman wasn't the person to task with decorating the cake - his plates are always super sloppy. That cake looked like it had been trampled, or made by a 3-year-old. The couple should have gone with Susur's croquembouche for the cake pictures. (Incidentally, one way Blue Team could have made a gorgeous and easy wedding cake was to just ice it white and decorate it with fresh flowers.)
5) Why was the carrot cake green? Is that something BC hippies do?
6) To answer your bf's suggestion of marriage with a "F*ck you!" - that's pretty badass. Is Susur's gf really as blunt and salty as he makes her out to be? If so, I want to hang out with her. I bet Tony Bourdain would too.
Labels:
tv
May 8, 2010
Terrior, part II
Occasion: Drinks with James
Location: Terroir on E 12th at 1st Ave (wineisterroir.com)
Edibles: prosciutto; marinated cremini mushrooms; beet and orange salad; olive oil cake with rhubarb compote
Musings: Not as stellar a performance as on my first visit. I was a little miffed that the chef wouldn't share the secret fritata she had stashed in the oven, and the rhubarb was strangely salty and slimy (though both the waiter and the chef swore up and down that was how it was supposed to taste.)
Location: Terroir on E 12th at 1st Ave (wineisterroir.com)
Edibles: prosciutto; marinated cremini mushrooms; beet and orange salad; olive oil cake with rhubarb compote
Musings: Not as stellar a performance as on my first visit. I was a little miffed that the chef wouldn't share the secret fritata she had stashed in the oven, and the rhubarb was strangely salty and slimy (though both the waiter and the chef swore up and down that was how it was supposed to taste.)
Labels:
$$$-under50,
downtown,
European-cuisine,
Italian,
Manhattan-east,
restaurant,
wine
Veselka
Occasion: Post-movie (Iron Man 2) brunch
Location: Veselka on 2nd Ave between 9th and St Marks (veselka.com)
Edibles: mushroom, spinch, cheddar omelet with potato pancake for me; French toast for Robert
Musings: Veselka has long been one of my favorite places to go after karaoke on St Marks, when the midnight munchies strike. They're more interesting than your standard diner, and the pierogies and potato pancakes really hit the spot.
I had never been here during the day before but it turns out their potato pancakes, heaped with applesauce and sour cream, are just as good in daylight when you're sober as they are in the wee hours when you're pretty buzzed (and hoarse from screaming "Livin' on a Prayer" multiple times at the top of your lungs).
Location: Veselka on 2nd Ave between 9th and St Marks (veselka.com)
Edibles: mushroom, spinch, cheddar omelet with potato pancake for me; French toast for Robert
Musings: Veselka has long been one of my favorite places to go after karaoke on St Marks, when the midnight munchies strike. They're more interesting than your standard diner, and the pierogies and potato pancakes really hit the spot.
I had never been here during the day before but it turns out their potato pancakes, heaped with applesauce and sour cream, are just as good in daylight when you're sober as they are in the wee hours when you're pretty buzzed (and hoarse from screaming "Livin' on a Prayer" multiple times at the top of your lungs).
Labels:
$$-under25,
brunch,
downtown,
European-cuisine,
Manhattan-east,
Polish,
restaurant,
Ukranian
May 5, 2010
Nam Son
(Post #200! Thanks to all my old faithfuls, and welcome to my newcomers!)
Occasion: Pho for Cinco de Mayo! Umm.... yeah.... The crew included Melissa and Tony, Sung and Mike, Alicia and Robert
Location: Nam Son on Grand between Bowery and Chrystie
Edibles: spring rolls; summer rolls; lemongrass noodles with beef and onion; bird's nest stir-fry; a giant burrito-like thing; three orders of pho with "everything" (assorted meats and tripes); spicy noodles; rice crêpes with ham; a colorful shaved ice dessert
Musings: All that and assorted beverages, for an amazing $17 per person after tip and tax. Thanks to Robert for sharing his pho place, and introducing us to many other Vietnamese culinary delights besides. (The restaurant recs were really flying! My fellow diners could teach a class on where to get good Southest Asian food in NYC. Mike and Sung, it was great to meet you and I can't wait to try Wondee Siam #1.)
My favorites were classics: the spring rolls, wonderfully crunchy and piping hot, and the pho. On the pho, don't be fooled by the bargain basement price of $6.25 - the bowl is absolutely HUMONGOUS and more than enough for three or more to share. The broth was great, and though I couldn't positively identify all the animal parts I fished out, hey, that's the spirit of adventure.
The lemongrass noodles with beef were good - I'd get them again, with a group. The flavors and textures in the rice crêpe dish struck me as kind of odd; it might be an acquired taste. I'd pass on the bird's nest stir-fry, which struck me as pretty ho-hum. But, all in all, it was a fantastic meal. Two thumbs up. [Postscript: I woke up the next day, still full.]
The carnage:
Occasion: Pho for Cinco de Mayo! Umm.... yeah.... The crew included Melissa and Tony, Sung and Mike, Alicia and Robert
Location: Nam Son on Grand between Bowery and Chrystie
Edibles: spring rolls; summer rolls; lemongrass noodles with beef and onion; bird's nest stir-fry; a giant burrito-like thing; three orders of pho with "everything" (assorted meats and tripes); spicy noodles; rice crêpes with ham; a colorful shaved ice dessert
Musings: All that and assorted beverages, for an amazing $17 per person after tip and tax. Thanks to Robert for sharing his pho place, and introducing us to many other Vietnamese culinary delights besides. (The restaurant recs were really flying! My fellow diners could teach a class on where to get good Southest Asian food in NYC. Mike and Sung, it was great to meet you and I can't wait to try Wondee Siam #1.)
My favorites were classics: the spring rolls, wonderfully crunchy and piping hot, and the pho. On the pho, don't be fooled by the bargain basement price of $6.25 - the bowl is absolutely HUMONGOUS and more than enough for three or more to share. The broth was great, and though I couldn't positively identify all the animal parts I fished out, hey, that's the spirit of adventure.
The lemongrass noodles with beef were good - I'd get them again, with a group. The flavors and textures in the rice crêpe dish struck me as kind of odd; it might be an acquired taste. I'd pass on the bird's nest stir-fry, which struck me as pretty ho-hum. But, all in all, it was a fantastic meal. Two thumbs up. [Postscript: I woke up the next day, still full.]
The carnage:
Labels:
$$-under25,
Asian-cuisine,
downtown,
Manhattan-east,
restaurant,
Vietnamese
May 1, 2010
Top Chef Masters Season 2, Ep. 4
Original Air Date: April 28, 2010
1) I liked Maria's approach to the Quickfire. The soup-main-dessert composition was both creative and elegant.
2) Susur's pineapple ravioli idea was really cool but he should have chosen something other than red berries for the filling. Like maybe mango or citrus? The juice bleeding through the pineapple was a little CSI for me. He also threw, like, ten thousand other things on the plate and turned it into a crazy mess. A little restraint, dude.
3) Wow, Rick must have amazing relationships with both his ex and his current wife to make his situation work.
4) Is Sofia Vergara ridiculously good-looking or what? I'm glad she's not MY co-worker.
5) I wish the judges had said a little more about what made Susur's unremarkable-sounding chicken curry, like, the best food ever cooked. I mean, Julie Bowen liked it a lot, but based on the judges' table discussion I never would have guessed that he'd score as high as he did. But way to go, Susur! Go Canada!
1) I liked Maria's approach to the Quickfire. The soup-main-dessert composition was both creative and elegant.
2) Susur's pineapple ravioli idea was really cool but he should have chosen something other than red berries for the filling. Like maybe mango or citrus? The juice bleeding through the pineapple was a little CSI for me. He also threw, like, ten thousand other things on the plate and turned it into a crazy mess. A little restraint, dude.
3) Wow, Rick must have amazing relationships with both his ex and his current wife to make his situation work.
4) Is Sofia Vergara ridiculously good-looking or what? I'm glad she's not MY co-worker.
5) I wish the judges had said a little more about what made Susur's unremarkable-sounding chicken curry, like, the best food ever cooked. I mean, Julie Bowen liked it a lot, but based on the judges' table discussion I never would have guessed that he'd score as high as he did. But way to go, Susur! Go Canada!
Labels:
tv
April 27, 2010
Ali Baba
Occasion: Low-key birthday dinner for my brother
Location: Ali Baba on 34th betweeen 2nd and 3rd (alibabaturkishcuisine.com)
Edibles: small mixed appetizer; I had the doner kebab; he had the Mediterranean salad with chicken (though he ordered it with lamb)
Musings: My brother didn't feel like a night out, so instead we ate takeout at home and watched the new episode of House. As he said, simple pleasures. It occurs to me he's actually pretty smart for a young'un. Happy 21st, kid!
Despite its cringe-worthy name, Ali Baba serves some pretty awesome food. I love their mixed appetitzer. I get it all the time - it's the perfect warm weather dinner. It's got hummus, patlican salatast (a smoked eggplant dip), another eggplant concoction with tomatoes, ispanak (sauteed spinach) and lebni (yogurt with walnuts and dill). It comes with half a wheel of bread for dipping, and there's usually enough food to last me for two meals. They do have a heavy hand with the garlic, so be forewarned.
If eating with a friend, it's nice to get one of the meat dishes to round out the meal. The doner kebab is a classic, of course. I also like the iskender kebab, which is the shaved lamb over a bed of fried bread, doused with tomato sauce and yogurt. It's sloppy and hearty and wonderful - a little lasagne-like even. Their adana is decent too, if sometimes a tad dry.
Labels:
$$-under25,
Manhattan-east,
MiddleEastern-cuisine,
midtown,
restaurant,
Turkish
April 23, 2010
Top Chef Masters Season 2, Ep. 3
Original Air Date: April 21, 2010
1) The Real Housewives are some of the worst guest judges I've ever seen. A pork dish is not "bad" just because you don't like pork. A food critic has to have a certain amount of objectivity: was a dish cooked skillfully - regardless of whether or not you personally liked the ingredients?
2) On a related note, Mark must be one hell of a chef to pull off a mussel custards with figs. That just sounds gross.
3) Ludo is not the endearing nutter I remember from last season. Is it just me, or was everything he said really THAT douche-y? He could take a few lessons from Thierry on how to represent his country.
4) Also, his dish with the raw vegetables, miso peanuts and Guinness caramel was just ridiculous. Irish stew isn't that far off from boeuf bourguignon - I say he could have found a way to leverage his classical French training.
5) Based on Jonathan's previous performances, I can totally believe that his dish was delicious. However, it looked like he poured potato soup over a steak dinner. Presentation is definitely not his forte.
6) Wylie's food is not really my thing but I'm still sad he didn't advance. He's really creative, and goofy and lovable. His wanting to pan-fry a chocolate chip cookie to make it cook faster was my favorite moment from last season.
1) The Real Housewives are some of the worst guest judges I've ever seen. A pork dish is not "bad" just because you don't like pork. A food critic has to have a certain amount of objectivity: was a dish cooked skillfully - regardless of whether or not you personally liked the ingredients?
2) On a related note, Mark must be one hell of a chef to pull off a mussel custards with figs. That just sounds gross.
3) Ludo is not the endearing nutter I remember from last season. Is it just me, or was everything he said really THAT douche-y? He could take a few lessons from Thierry on how to represent his country.
4) Also, his dish with the raw vegetables, miso peanuts and Guinness caramel was just ridiculous. Irish stew isn't that far off from boeuf bourguignon - I say he could have found a way to leverage his classical French training.
5) Based on Jonathan's previous performances, I can totally believe that his dish was delicious. However, it looked like he poured potato soup over a steak dinner. Presentation is definitely not his forte.
6) Wylie's food is not really my thing but I'm still sad he didn't advance. He's really creative, and goofy and lovable. His wanting to pan-fry a chocolate chip cookie to make it cook faster was my favorite moment from last season.
Labels:
tv
April 16, 2010
Uva
Occasion: Pre-Brandy's dinner with Rebecca, Tessa and Dale
Location: Uva on 2nd between 77th and 78th (uvawinebar.com)
Edibles: to start, we shared a burrata with yellow tomatoes, fava beans and a balsamic glaze (I continue to be obsessed with burrata); I had the beet salad; Dale had the chicken salad; Rebecca had the cavatelli al pesto; Tessa had the ravioli; we passed around a slice of girella al cioccolato (chocolate-hazelnut cake) for dessert
Musings: Location is everything. A place like Uva with a decent atmosphere and decent food would probably survive okay in the crowded field of the LES. But out in the barrens of the UES, it's packed to the rafters.
I don't think I've ever been here for an evening that didn't include Brandy's (one of my happy places, along with the shoe department at Bergdorf's). But though I wouldn't go out of my way to come here, they do make a decent showing. The wine list is long and varied. Our dishes were flavorful and all of the portions were generous. I was particularly impressed by Rebecca's cavatelli - the pasta was nicely plump and tasted homemade to me. And the cake was divine.
Labels:
$$-under25,
European-cuisine,
Italian,
Manhattan-east,
restaurant,
uptown,
wine
April 15, 2010
Top Chef Masters Season 2, Ep. 2
Original Air Date: April 14, 2010
1) Not to be a hypocrite but I find it hard to believe that Kelly Choi, who looks gaunt even on TV, eats grilled cheese sandwiches on a regular basis.
2) From Ethiopia to Sweden... I bet Marcus has some stories to tell.
3) I don't understand how grits "mac and cheese" style are not just cheese grits. Also, Oseland, it's not "deconstructed" just because the shrimp is on the side instead of on top of the grits.
4) Why did David choose to serve his custard in an eggshell? That sort of pretentious restaurant trick is the exact opposite of the down-to-earth spirit of soul food.
5) I like a good comeback story as much as the next guy but Carmen's dish sounded boring, quite frankly. Pity vote? Dunno. Monica, David and Thierry did kind of screw her over. Marcus may have been a dick for refusing to help out, but at least he didn't set her back.
[Postscript on 3: I watched a rerun and finally figured out this dish. It looks like Monica made a béchamel cheese sauce to ladle on top of plain grits. It makes James Oseland's comment make slightly more sense. But I still don't understand A) why she didn't just make cheese grits; and B) why this is "mac and cheese" style since mac has the cheese sauce is mixed.]
1) Not to be a hypocrite but I find it hard to believe that Kelly Choi, who looks gaunt even on TV, eats grilled cheese sandwiches on a regular basis.
2) From Ethiopia to Sweden... I bet Marcus has some stories to tell.
3) I don't understand how grits "mac and cheese" style are not just cheese grits. Also, Oseland, it's not "deconstructed" just because the shrimp is on the side instead of on top of the grits.
4) Why did David choose to serve his custard in an eggshell? That sort of pretentious restaurant trick is the exact opposite of the down-to-earth spirit of soul food.
5) I like a good comeback story as much as the next guy but Carmen's dish sounded boring, quite frankly. Pity vote? Dunno. Monica, David and Thierry did kind of screw her over. Marcus may have been a dick for refusing to help out, but at least he didn't set her back.
[Postscript on 3: I watched a rerun and finally figured out this dish. It looks like Monica made a béchamel cheese sauce to ladle on top of plain grits. It makes James Oseland's comment make slightly more sense. But I still don't understand A) why she didn't just make cheese grits; and B) why this is "mac and cheese" style since mac has the cheese sauce is mixed.]
Labels:
tv
April 14, 2010
Artisanal
Occasion: Drinks and fondue to celebrate Michael's new job!
Location: Artisanal at 32nd and Park (artisanalbistro.com)
Edibles: Artisanal blend fondue with fingerling potatoes and kielbasa
Musings: A cheese-lover's heaven. Artisanal has a similar vibe to Balthazar, but it's not nearly as much of a pain to get into. There's a cheese cave with a single table inside - I've never reserved it, but it looks really fun for a special occasion.
The fondue is great for brunch or dinner. Besides the basket of bread cubes it comes with, I love to get the fingerling potatoes and the apples. Wasn't crazy about the Spam-like kielbasa we ordered this time. (You can get a salad to share if you're feeling guilty about the complete lack of vegetables. I promise I'll still respect you.)
Location: Artisanal at 32nd and Park (artisanalbistro.com)
Edibles: Artisanal blend fondue with fingerling potatoes and kielbasa
Musings: A cheese-lover's heaven. Artisanal has a similar vibe to Balthazar, but it's not nearly as much of a pain to get into. There's a cheese cave with a single table inside - I've never reserved it, but it looks really fun for a special occasion.
The fondue is great for brunch or dinner. Besides the basket of bread cubes it comes with, I love to get the fingerling potatoes and the apples. Wasn't crazy about the Spam-like kielbasa we ordered this time. (You can get a salad to share if you're feeling guilty about the complete lack of vegetables. I promise I'll still respect you.)
Labels:
$$$-under50,
brunch,
European-cuisine,
Manhattan-east,
midtown,
restaurant
April 11, 2010
Motorino - Pizza Crawl Stop #4
Location: Motorino on 12th St between 1st and 2nd (motorinopizza.com)
Edibles: cremini mushroom and sweet sausage pizza, margherita pizza
Musings: Our last stop. Impressively, nine of eleven people who started the day lasted to the finish line. No one was, by any stretch of the imagination, hungry at this point but many were able to find a second wind.
There was a brunch pizza with eggs that sounded intriguing, but we settled on the cremini and sweet sausage and the classic margherita. The toppings on both pizzas were high quality. I was a big fan of the cremini and sausage, personally. The margherita was workmanlike but I was too pizza'ed out to work up any real enthusiasm.
Their crust could use some work - while nice and chewy, it was also pretty salty and aggressively charred. This location is pretty new so perhaps they're still getting used to the idiosyncrasies of their pizza oven.
My tally: I managed a slice of each, but they were pretty puny so I'll count it as one. Grand total: 4½. I think that's pretty respectable.
Labels:
$$-under25,
downtown,
European-cuisine,
Italian,
Manhattan-east,
pizza,
restaurant
Artichoke - Pizza Crawl Stop #3
Location: Artichoke on 14th St between 1st and 2nd (artichokepizza.com)
Edibles: the eponymous artichoke pizza and margherita pizza
Musings: Yet another beast. I LOVED the artichoke slice. Really gooey and cheesy and full of umami! It's basically pizza topped with spinach-artichoke dip. Yum. I had a slight criticism for the crust, which was on the thick side and tasted slightly stale (which couldn't have been the case since the line was insane). Because of the thick crust and the richness of the toppings, one of their mammoth slices can easily be shared between two people.
The margherita had a slightly thinner, crunchier, almost cracker-like crust. Of the three tomato sauces tasted so far, this one was the least memorable. (Though I was also the least hungry at Artichoke, so factor in some bias.) My overall feel was that the slice was constructed in a somewhat sloppy manner - definitely not as much attention to detail or finesse as Totonno's.
They had a daily special with crab, which I'd be interested to taste another time. Of the two we did have, the artichoke slice was by far the superior.
My tally: A half slice each of the artichoke and the margherita, for a running total of 3½.
Labels:
$-under10,
downtown,
European-cuisine,
Italian,
Manhattan-east,
pizza,
streetfood
L&B - Pizza Crawl Stop #2
Location: L&B Spumoni Gardens on 86th St between 10th and 11th St in Brooklyn (spumonigardens.com)
Edibles: thick-crust Sicilian pizza
Musings: A totally different beast. A whole rectangular pie yields twelve hefty slices. The dough is nice and yeasty and the sauce is solid, a little spicier than Totonno's. The cheese is under the sauce, a good ¼ inch of it. A slight ding for the quality of the cheese - it tasted like grocery store processed mozzarella. Though yummy in its own way, this one is breadier than I like my pizzas.
My tally: A whole slice here, for a running total of 2½. I think at this point Tom was up to a group high score of five.
Labels:
$-under10,
Brooklyn,
European-cuisine,
Italian,
pizza,
streetfood
Totonno's - Pizza Crawl Stop #1
Occasion: Gary's Second Annual Pizza Crawl! Participants included Jill and Tom, Kristina and Ryan, Amanda and Chris, Adrienne, Jeannie, Debby and me.
Location: Totonno's Pizzeria Napolitano on Neptune Ave between 15th and 16th St in Brooklyn (totonnos.com) [Note: another location in Manhattan on 2nd between 26th and 27th - just a hop and skip away from my apt!]
Edibles: a white pizza and a regular pizza with tomato sauce (pictured below)
Musings: A no-frills neighborhood place. We ran into a local boys' soccer team celebrating with pies and root beers. It was very cute.
I thought Totonno's standard pie was outstanding. Thin, chewy crust with a good snap to it. Good structural integrity - not soggy at all. Fresh and zesty tomato sauce. The white pie was also tasty, if a touch too garlicky for me.
A few caveats. First, getting there. The closest subway stop is Coney Island / Stillwell Ave - all the way at the end of the line on the N, Q, D and F. It takes a good hour to get there from Manhattan, plus it's a bit of walk from the stop. Also, they don't serve single slices, only whole pies.
As good as the pizza was, I'm probably not going to be making the trip out to this location very much. But I will definitely be visiting the Manhattan location soon for a comparison. Stay tuned.
My tally: Trying to pace myself, I had a half slice of the white and a full slice of the tomato. So 1½ slices and counting.
Labels:
$-under10,
Brooklyn,
European-cuisine,
Italian,
pizza,
restaurant
April 10, 2010
Mmmm... brownie husband
I saw this and immediately thought, "I could totally go for a Bacon Husband."
Also, I want to be Tina Fey when I grow up.
Labels:
tv
Falai [closed]
Occasion: Dinner with James, after a wander through the Whitney Biennial
Location: Falai on Clinton between Rivington and Stanton (falainyc.com) - Note: Falai is closed
Edibles: celery root soup with goat cheese amuse bouche; I had the polenta bianca with chicken liver and dried dates to start; James had the smoked salmon bonbon with pine-infused crème fraîche mousse; we shared the eggless pasta with wild boar ragu; I had the scallop main; James had the lamb main; pre-dessert bites of a tiny cannoli and chestnut cake with vanilla gelato and chamomile tea; we shared the chocolate brioche for an actual dessert
Musings: A very long, narrow restaurant. I had a great seat facing their kitchen. I must say I'm very impressed that they're able to run a fine-dining restaurant out of a kitchen smaller my apartment's, no exaggeration. They had three chefs crammed in there. (I think desserts were relegated to the basement.) While the chefs were clearly very disciplined and focused, I think the menu suffered slightly from their space limitations.
I practically swooned over my first course, though. What a stunner. The starchy blandness of the polenta was the perfect background for the earthy, velvety richness of the chicken liver. The dates provided a nice accent note of sweetness. Mmmm..... just fabulous. James' salmon dish was gorgeous - a real work of art - but I didn't think he was too impressed by it. It was also too small and fussy to share, always a demerit in my book.
The pasta dish was pretty amazing. The rustic-looking, hand-rolled noodles had a great chewy texture. I thought the dough had olive oil in it, but was informed that it's just flour and water. Apparently, Falai gets a pasta guru to come in during the day, sit in the basement and just make noodles by hand for hours at a time. As a side note, it's too bad they don't serve their pasta tasting on the weekend.
My scallop main was a disappointment. They definitely overcooked the scallops, and also failed to trim the rubbery side muscle off one of them - quite the faux pas for a fancy restaurant. I enjoyed my bite of the lamb dish but I did notice James sawing away at it. The chocolate dessert was yummy, so at least the meal ended on a good note.
Two critiques. First, too many things were served lukewarm or at room temp - the limitations of the small kitchen I mentioned above. When you've got no space, you've got to rely heavily on dishes and sides you can finish in advance. Second, they seemed to be much more concerned with how beautiful the dishes looked than how good they tasted (with the exception of the homely-looking but delicious pasta). I recommend a re-ordering of priorities.
Though it was a slightly uneven meal, I did enjoy most of what I ate. I'd come again for the polenta, and to try other pasta dishes.
Labels:
$$$$-over50,
downtown,
European-cuisine,
Italian,
Manhattan-east,
restaurant
April 9, 2010
Klee
Occasion: Dinner with Jill and Elizabeth
Location: Klee on 9th Ave between 22nd and 23rd (kleebrasserie.com)
Edibles: mini lobster rolls and the carbonara special for me; Elizabeth and Jill shared a cheese plate and the spätzle "mac and cheese"; Elizabeth also had the Alsatian pizza and Jill, pea soup
Musings: I'd give Klee a grade of B overall. In sum: nice atmosphere; hit and miss on the food; a bit pricey.
My mini lobster rolls were decent enough for the $9 price. Elizabeth and Jill did not have as much luck with their app, the mini pork buns. The filling was described as "pork confit" on the menu but was in actuality a slice of pork belly, 95% fat and 5% meat. Neither Elizabeth nor Jill found it remotely edible. Credit to the restaurant, they immediately took it back and off the bill.
Their replacement - the spätzle "mac and cheese" - was much better. Creamy and cheesy with tender homemade noodles, it was very indulgent and tasty, though pretty expensive at $15 for a medium-sized serving. My carbonara wasn't as good as the spätzle. It was a bit gloppy and had a strange and completely superfluous garnish of trout roe. I ordered the half portion and, for such a heavy dish, it was plenty.
I thought the little shot glasses of complimentary passionfruit punch at the end were a nice touch.
April 8, 2010
Mmmm... avocado
It's getting to be that time of year when avocados are cheap and plentiful! I've been keeping a few on hand in my fruit bowl for a quick snack. No cooking required, so it's perfect for when you charge in the front door, absolutely STARVING. Rich and buttery, avocados are a great spread for sandwiches. I sometimes use a generous smear in the place of mayo.
Two salad recipes below, one very easy, the other slightly trickier. When your ingredients are fresh and in season, you barely have to do anything to them at all. (But here's the rub: when you're barely cooking them, your ingredients have to be great.) The fat in avocados is the "good" kind, monounsaturated. According to Wikipedia, avocados are also relatively high in fiber and have more potassium than bananas.
Texture-wise, I like it when avocados are soft and unctuous. The easiest way to tell if one's ripe is to give it a little squeeze. Be gentle - apply the amount of force it would take to just bruise a peach. The avocado should have a definite give under your fingers. If the skin feels like it's pulled away from the fruit, it's a bit overripe and will not keep very long in your home. For eating, overripe is preferable to underripe - nothing's worse than an avocado that's hard and crunchy.
Shucking: Slice the avocado lengthwise, cutting around the pit. Twist to separate the two halves. I then (very carefully!) sink the heel of my knife into the pit and give it a twist to pop it out.
Tomato, Bocconcini and Avocado Salad
Slice a medium-sized grid into each avocado half, while still in the skin. Using a spoon, scoop out the avocado - it should come out in nice cubes. For every avocado you're using, dice 1 - 2 plum tomatoes (more flavorful than beefsteak, cheaper than hothouse) and a handful of bocconcini. If your bocconcini are very small, they may not need to be cut at all; the kind I got from the FreshDirect deli, about the size of cherry tomatoes, I sliced in half.
In a large bowl, combine your ingredients and pour in a glug of good olive oil and a dash of vinegar - red wine, white wine, cider, almost any kind besides plain white, which should only be used as a household cleaner, and balsamic, which is too murky and aggressive. (See how easy? You don't even have to make a proper vinaigrette.) Season with salt and pepper. Can throw in some fresh basil if you have it. Toss. Eat!
Avocado and Grapefruit Salad
Instead of cubing the avocado as above, I like to use the spoon to scoop out big parabolic discs. Here is the only tricky part - you have to suprême the grapefruit. Martha Stewart's instructions here. Dress the avocado and grapefruit segments with some juice squeezed from the de-fruited core, olive oil, salt and pepper. If you use a Ruby Red grapefruit the colors are just gorgeous, which is why I like to serve this salad spread out on a plate. Can garnish with a little grated parmesan.
Two salad recipes below, one very easy, the other slightly trickier. When your ingredients are fresh and in season, you barely have to do anything to them at all. (But here's the rub: when you're barely cooking them, your ingredients have to be great.) The fat in avocados is the "good" kind, monounsaturated. According to Wikipedia, avocados are also relatively high in fiber and have more potassium than bananas.
Texture-wise, I like it when avocados are soft and unctuous. The easiest way to tell if one's ripe is to give it a little squeeze. Be gentle - apply the amount of force it would take to just bruise a peach. The avocado should have a definite give under your fingers. If the skin feels like it's pulled away from the fruit, it's a bit overripe and will not keep very long in your home. For eating, overripe is preferable to underripe - nothing's worse than an avocado that's hard and crunchy.
Shucking: Slice the avocado lengthwise, cutting around the pit. Twist to separate the two halves. I then (very carefully!) sink the heel of my knife into the pit and give it a twist to pop it out.
Tomato, Bocconcini and Avocado Salad
Slice a medium-sized grid into each avocado half, while still in the skin. Using a spoon, scoop out the avocado - it should come out in nice cubes. For every avocado you're using, dice 1 - 2 plum tomatoes (more flavorful than beefsteak, cheaper than hothouse) and a handful of bocconcini. If your bocconcini are very small, they may not need to be cut at all; the kind I got from the FreshDirect deli, about the size of cherry tomatoes, I sliced in half.
In a large bowl, combine your ingredients and pour in a glug of good olive oil and a dash of vinegar - red wine, white wine, cider, almost any kind besides plain white, which should only be used as a household cleaner, and balsamic, which is too murky and aggressive. (See how easy? You don't even have to make a proper vinaigrette.) Season with salt and pepper. Can throw in some fresh basil if you have it. Toss. Eat!
Avocado and Grapefruit Salad
Instead of cubing the avocado as above, I like to use the spoon to scoop out big parabolic discs. Here is the only tricky part - you have to suprême the grapefruit. Martha Stewart's instructions here. Dress the avocado and grapefruit segments with some juice squeezed from the de-fruited core, olive oil, salt and pepper. If you use a Ruby Red grapefruit the colors are just gorgeous, which is why I like to serve this salad spread out on a plate. Can garnish with a little grated parmesan.
Labels:
recipe
Top Chef Masters Season 2, Ep. 1
Original Air Date: April 7, 2010
The Masters are back, baby!
1) Last season must have done well - prize money is WAY up this season. It looks like they're also tinkering with the format? I think it made more sense when the score was cumulative over the two events.
2) Clamato was a smart pick for a gas station ingredient. The crazy red dye Cheetos, not so much. Govind, you're pretty but dumb. And kind of whiny.
3) I think the rice cakes (Team Ana and Jerry) should have won the Quickfire for more creative use of ingredients. Bread pudding is hardly a stretch.
4) Wasn't really blown away by any of the Elimination dishes. None of the duos made a ton of sense together, and half the dishes sounded like they had pretty big execution issues. Or maybe it was just the way they edited the judges' comments to be so noncommital.
5) I swear Kelly and Gael have both had plastic surgery since last season. Kelly's eyes bug out a lot more than they used to, and Gael either had a bad chemical peel or I guess it could have been a bad sunburn.
The Masters are back, baby!
1) Last season must have done well - prize money is WAY up this season. It looks like they're also tinkering with the format? I think it made more sense when the score was cumulative over the two events.
2) Clamato was a smart pick for a gas station ingredient. The crazy red dye Cheetos, not so much. Govind, you're pretty but dumb. And kind of whiny.
3) I think the rice cakes (Team Ana and Jerry) should have won the Quickfire for more creative use of ingredients. Bread pudding is hardly a stretch.
4) Wasn't really blown away by any of the Elimination dishes. None of the duos made a ton of sense together, and half the dishes sounded like they had pretty big execution issues. Or maybe it was just the way they edited the judges' comments to be so noncommital.
5) I swear Kelly and Gael have both had plastic surgery since last season. Kelly's eyes bug out a lot more than they used to, and Gael either had a bad chemical peel or I guess it could have been a bad sunburn.
Labels:
tv
April 7, 2010
Mmmm... braised short rib with tagliatelle
Folks, I have not been this excited about a recipe in a long time. Beef on the bone, tomatoes, wine, bacon.... as Ina would say, how bad can that be?! I sincerely hope that you will either make this for yourself, or talk me into making it for you. Creative bribery encouraged.
2 bay leaves
salt and pepper to taste
2 packets of fresh tagliatelle (or other wide noodle)
The short rib is a one-pot deal. Advance warning that it will be stewing for about 4 hours - you will want a nice heavy pot. I, of course, used my trusty yellow Le Creuset (as pictured in the crappy bb photo above).
Chop up the bacon and throw it into the pot over medium heat to render (i.e. cook out the fat). When the bacon is crispy and browned, remove the bacon (and reserve) but leave the fat.
Sear the short ribs in the bacon fat. If you've never seen one, they tend to be almost square. You want to be patient with this step, and develop a good brown crust on at least four of the six sides. It will pay dividends later. Browning = flavor. You will probably need to do this in two batches. Remove all the browned short ribs to a plate.
Without cleaning the pot, throw in the chopped carrots and onion. (Some fat will render from the short ribs too, which should provide ample cooking oil.) Cook them until they start to brown, too.
Deglaze with red wine. Give the bottom of the pot a good scraping to liberate all the tasty brown bits. Add the tomatoes, beef broth, bay leaves. Season cautiously with salt and pepper (watch the salt in particular - the beef broth may have a little or a lot, you will be reducing the liquid, and you will be adding the bacon back later). Return the short ribs to the pot; the meat should mostly be submerged in the braising liquid. Bring to a simmer and cover.
Cook covered for 1.5 hours. Check on it once in a while to make sure nothing's sticking to the bottom. At the end of that time, uncover and check seasoning (it should still be somewhat under-salted at this point).
Cook for *another* 1.5 hours, uncovered. The braising liquid will gradually reduce and thicken into a sauce - it's okay if the beef is no longer fully submerged. As before, stir once in a while. [During the long simmer, you might pass the time by watching a movie or two, and enjoying the half bottle of wine you conveniently have on hand. You can always open another one for dinner.]
Noodles: About 20 min before the beef is due to be done, put a big pot of water on to boil. I strongly recommend using a fresh pasta - the grocery store kind, usually found in a refrigerated case near the dairy and eggs, is fine. Get the widest noodle you can find - tagliatelle ideally but fettucine will do. Cook the pasta al dente.
While the pasta is cooking, remove the short ribs and shred the meat using two forks. The meat should fall off the bone and be very tender and easy to shred. Return the shredded meat to the pot with the sauce, and fold in. Sprinkle in the bacon. Check seasoning one last time.
With this dish, I like to mix the pasta and the sauce in the pot and serve it pre-mixed, as opposed to ladling the sauce over the plain noodles. Garnish with a little grated parmesan or chopped parsley if you have it. Alternatively, Giada grates on a little dark chocolate.
The full recipe - 2 lbs of short ribs and two packets of pasta - will make about six generous servings. You could theoretically halve it. But a full recipe is about the same amount of work, so why not make extra? The shredded short rib sauce refrigerates beautifully and will keep a little over a week - it can be two meals for three people, three meals for two people or even six meals for one person, provided you're not the kind of person who gets tired of eating one dish over and over.
(Important Note: If you're refrigerating the sauce, DON'T put in the bacon until you're reheating it to eat. If you leave the bacon soaking in the sauce, the salt will leach out and make your sauce too salty. I learned this one the hard way. Can be ameliorated with a touch of sugar, but better not to mess it up in the first place.)
Alternate serving suggestion: Instead of shredding the short rib, you can serve a whole one (or two) nestled in a bed of polenta or mashed potatoes, and spoon some sauce over it.
Enjoy!
Braised Short Rib with Tagliatelle
(based on Giada's recipe)
4 slices thick-cut bacon
1 very large onion, chopped
5 carrots, peeled and chopped
14oz can of crushed tomatoes
1 can beef broth
½ bottle of a nice red wine with some personality2 bay leaves
salt and pepper to taste
2 packets of fresh tagliatelle (or other wide noodle)
The short rib is a one-pot deal. Advance warning that it will be stewing for about 4 hours - you will want a nice heavy pot. I, of course, used my trusty yellow Le Creuset (as pictured in the crappy bb photo above).
Chop up the bacon and throw it into the pot over medium heat to render (i.e. cook out the fat). When the bacon is crispy and browned, remove the bacon (and reserve) but leave the fat.
Sear the short ribs in the bacon fat. If you've never seen one, they tend to be almost square. You want to be patient with this step, and develop a good brown crust on at least four of the six sides. It will pay dividends later. Browning = flavor. You will probably need to do this in two batches. Remove all the browned short ribs to a plate.
Without cleaning the pot, throw in the chopped carrots and onion. (Some fat will render from the short ribs too, which should provide ample cooking oil.) Cook them until they start to brown, too.
Deglaze with red wine. Give the bottom of the pot a good scraping to liberate all the tasty brown bits. Add the tomatoes, beef broth, bay leaves. Season cautiously with salt and pepper (watch the salt in particular - the beef broth may have a little or a lot, you will be reducing the liquid, and you will be adding the bacon back later). Return the short ribs to the pot; the meat should mostly be submerged in the braising liquid. Bring to a simmer and cover.
Cook covered for 1.5 hours. Check on it once in a while to make sure nothing's sticking to the bottom. At the end of that time, uncover and check seasoning (it should still be somewhat under-salted at this point).
Cook for *another* 1.5 hours, uncovered. The braising liquid will gradually reduce and thicken into a sauce - it's okay if the beef is no longer fully submerged. As before, stir once in a while. [During the long simmer, you might pass the time by watching a movie or two, and enjoying the half bottle of wine you conveniently have on hand. You can always open another one for dinner.]
Noodles: About 20 min before the beef is due to be done, put a big pot of water on to boil. I strongly recommend using a fresh pasta - the grocery store kind, usually found in a refrigerated case near the dairy and eggs, is fine. Get the widest noodle you can find - tagliatelle ideally but fettucine will do. Cook the pasta al dente.
While the pasta is cooking, remove the short ribs and shred the meat using two forks. The meat should fall off the bone and be very tender and easy to shred. Return the shredded meat to the pot with the sauce, and fold in. Sprinkle in the bacon. Check seasoning one last time.
With this dish, I like to mix the pasta and the sauce in the pot and serve it pre-mixed, as opposed to ladling the sauce over the plain noodles. Garnish with a little grated parmesan or chopped parsley if you have it. Alternatively, Giada grates on a little dark chocolate.
The full recipe - 2 lbs of short ribs and two packets of pasta - will make about six generous servings. You could theoretically halve it. But a full recipe is about the same amount of work, so why not make extra? The shredded short rib sauce refrigerates beautifully and will keep a little over a week - it can be two meals for three people, three meals for two people or even six meals for one person, provided you're not the kind of person who gets tired of eating one dish over and over.
(Important Note: If you're refrigerating the sauce, DON'T put in the bacon until you're reheating it to eat. If you leave the bacon soaking in the sauce, the salt will leach out and make your sauce too salty. I learned this one the hard way. Can be ameliorated with a touch of sugar, but better not to mess it up in the first place.)
Alternate serving suggestion: Instead of shredding the short rib, you can serve a whole one (or two) nestled in a bed of polenta or mashed potatoes, and spoon some sauce over it.
Enjoy!
Labels:
European-cuisine,
hall-of-fame,
Italian,
recipe
April 3, 2010
Pulino's
Occasion: Pre-opera (Partenope) dinner with Melissa, Tony and Alicia
Location: Pulino's on Bowery and E Houston (pulinosny.com)
Edibles: gamberi (shrimp) pizza; salsiccia (sausage and broccoli rabe) pizza; fazzoletti (a crêpe-like creation stuffed with cheese and lamb ragu); asparagus with ramps, rhubarb and black pepper ricotta; a skillet of sausage and peppers - all eaten family-style
Musings: When I first walked in, I had the strongest sense of déjà vu. The backlit bar, the white tile, the pillars, the converted warehouse feel - all of it a dead ringer for Schiller's (which, as far as I know, is unaffiliated). It was pretty crowded and hectic, even though dinner service didn't officially begin for another 20 minutes, at 6:00. Speaking of which, a little suggestion: start earlier.
If you're going to identify yourself primarily as a pizzeria - and a gourmet, pricey one at that - your pizza's got to be outstanding. I found Pulino's to have good-quality toppings, but the crust definitely needs work. The relatively small pie was extremely soggy in the middle; if you try to pick up a slice, it just flops over and falls apart in your hand.
I thought the asparagus dish had too many components that didn't quite come together. The fazzoletti was decent but nothing exciting. The sausage and peppers I liked, but it came to the table sort of room temperature and I would have liked it hotter.
Pulino's is pretty new and, in my opinion, still working out a lot of kinks. This place has gotten a lot of press and will draw flocks of New York's fickle foodies for the next few weeks. My rec would be to wait until the furor dies down and see if they've really got the goods to stay open long term.
Executive chef Nate Appleman, of "The Next Iron Chef" fame, pictured with Alicia and Mel.
Labels:
$$$-under50,
downtown,
European-cuisine,
Italian,
Manhattan-east,
pizza,
restaurant
Union Square market
Edibles: fresh apple cider; a bag of apple cider donuts; a giant ginger cookie; a block of pumpkin gingerbread; slabs of a sharp cheddar and an aged alpine cheese; a Granny Smith apple
(We also came across a public group pillowfight in the square. Only in New York.)
Labels:
$-under10,
downtown,
Manhattan-east,
streetfood
April 2, 2010
Northern Spy Food Co.
Occasion: Dinner with Winnie (in from LA) and Gabrielle
Location: Northern Spy on 12th between A and B (northernspyfoodco.com)
Edibles: I had the polenta with greens, mushrooms, crème fraîche and a poached egg on top; Gabrielle had the sweet potato risotto; Winnie had the pork terrine followed by the pork loin main; we all shared the meatball special, and also split a slice of carrot cake for dessert
Musings: Great little neighborhood spot. I loved the décor, from the robin's-egg-blue bench to the wallpaper panels to the charmingly distressed wood everywhere (probably fake, but still).
I saw someone tucking into a plate of meatballs when we walked in and immediately fixated on them. I'm pleased to report that they were flavorful and satisfyingly hearty - less pleased that they're not a regular menu item. My polenta dish was a good gap-filler. (No, that's not quite fair. It's a good dish in its own right but could only play second fiddle tonight, what with me in a meatball haze.)
The cake was a little heavy and piled with too much frosting for my taste. For drinks, I can recommend their house cider and Winnie raved about the homemade blood orange seltzer.
Labels:
$$$-under50,
downtown,
Manhattan-east,
NorthAmerican-cuisine,
restaurant
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