Mmmm... bingsu

Bingsu is a Korean hybrid consisting of Asian-style frozen yogurt (Pinkberry, Red Mango, etc. that you can get stateside) on top of shaved ice, with toppings. Shown below: strawberry, mixed fruit, and chocolate cereal versions.

Bingsu is actually quite genius because it's more refreshing than just fro-yo alone, and has fewer calories. I think US fro-yo places should look into this.

Seoul Wrap-up: My knowledge of Korean cuisine has been expanded dramatically. Thank you SO SO SO much to Kathy and Ron, for showing me your Seoul and being such thoughtful and unstintingly generous hosts! You guys are the best! Shack burgers on me next time you're in the City.

[unidentified Korean bbq place in Seoul]

Occasion: My last dinner in Seoul with Kathy and Ron.
Location: a Korean bbq place in Shinchon
Edibles: beef, more beef and all the fixins'

Musings: We went to this place on my insistence. As good as tofu and mandoo are, the meat-tooth must be satisfied!

Goes to show - even a seasoned foodie can be led astray by preconceived notions. The beef had a nice marinade and was generally tasty, but nothing you can't get in the US. Definitely not worth wasting a meal in Korea. Lesson learned: listen to your local hosts when you travel.

[unidentified noodle shop in Seoul]

Occasion: Lunch with Kathy
Location: this place

Edibles: Non-spicy noodles for me; spicy noodles for Kathy

Musings: This dish really is the perfect summer lunch - cool, tart and light. Cold soba vermicelli (an opaque grey-green color and chewier than regular Chinese vermicelli made with mung beans) in an iced broth, with a hardboiled egg. I gave it a generous squirt of white vinegar, a substance I had previously dismissed as only fit for glass-cleaning, but which provided the perfect unobtrustive acidity. Outstanding.

(There was some barbequed pork on the side but I barely paid any attention to it, so occupied was I by the noodles. Considering what a meat-tooth I am, that's saying something.)

I think I can replicate this at home.

Kathy had the spicy version. (Note: If you're not a spicy foods wimp like me, you will LOVE Korea. They appreciate a pepper here. And possibly also Red Dye #40.)

Tofu House

Occasion: Dinner with some of Kathy and Ron's friends
Location: Tofu House, somewhere in Shinchon (again, I can always appeal to Kathy and Ron if you're looking for an exact location)
Edibles: non-spicy tofu stew with red bean rice

Musings: I love this sort of peasant food (matter-of-fact, hearty, loaded with lots of carbs and cheap proteins). I ordered the only non-spicy tofu stew on the menu. It was lovely and mild, with a slight peanut-y taste. I can totally see why Kathy and Ron are regulars here. It was a yummy meal even in the steamy summer heat - I can only imagine how wonderful it is in the deep of winter.

For those of you who recoil at the thought of eating tofu, I ask you to reconsider your prejudices. I like tofu not because it's healthy, but because it's awesome and delicious. The silky wobble of it on your tongue can be almost sort of... sexy.

It's bland, you say? So are many other wonderful foods like eggplant, rice, polenta and even bread. They're usually meant to absorb the characteristics of the foods you cook them with, or provide a respite from other intensely flavored things you're eating in the meal.

Yes, some ungodly things have been done to tofu. Tofurkey, for example, just gives me the creeps. I personally think preparations that substitute tofu for meat don't do it justice. It's perfectly tasty in its natural state. We Asians know how to cook it right - give it a chance!

Old Tea Shop

Location: Old Tea Shop, 2F 2-2 Kwan Hun-dong, Chong Ro-gu in the Insadong neighborhood of Seoul (e-mail oldteashop@hanmail.net)

We stopped here for a spot of afternoon tea. The Old Tea Shop has a very charming décor. I don't know enough to say whether it was authentic, but I loved the colors and textures. There was also a strong natural element - we sat at a "table" that was a giant urn fishbowl covered with glass top.

The tea shop also had finches (or some other little cheeping birds) flying around freely.

I had a refreshing and unusual citrus-y iced tea. Our beverages came with these oblong sticky rice pastries.

For first-time visitors to Seoul, I highly recommend Insadong and the Old Tea Shop. The little artists' shops along the main street were perfect for gift shopping - I picked up a nice pieced linen wall hanging for myself, and some little condiment dishes with a leaf design. And when you're shopped out, the Old Tea Shop provides the perfect zen oasis.

Sinpo Mandoo

Occasion: Pre-shopping lunch with Kathy
Location: Sinpo Mandoo (sinpomandoo.co.kr)
Edibles: fried mandoo; steamed black rice mandoo; kimchi mandoo

Musings: Sinpo's seating area was the epitome of bland mass-market eateries but I didn't have to worry that it was some shoddy Korean fast-food chain. One, I trusted that Kathy would never lead me astray like that. Two, on the way in we passed a window into the kitchen showing a little old man making mandoo by hand. (There's nothing worse than a chain restaurant where all the food is delivered pre-made and frozen, in bags. This is why I find Olive Garden and its ilk so offensive.)

The fried mandoo were my favorite of the three kinds we got. Unlike Chinese potstickers, which are generally pan-fried, these guys were breaded and deep-fried to create the great crunchy crust. The perfect combination of flavor and texture.

The black rice ones were novel and the flavor was good, but they were a touch soggy.

The kimchi mandoo were bold and spicy.... alas, a touch too spicy for me. I had two of these and my mouth started to go numb. I had beat an ignominious retreat but Kathy was able to finish them off.

If I were to come back, I'd probably be boring and get a double order of the fried mandoo. All in all, an excellent lunch - cheap, fast, fresh and tasty.

[unidentified bar in Seoul]

Occasion: My first adventure in Seoul!
Location: a bar in Shinchon - location upon request (my hosts Kathy and Ron will know exactly where it is)
Edibles: big plate o' fried things; Korean fried chicken

Musings: The big plate o' fried things included such diverse items as zucchini, fake crab, spam, sausage and tofu, with a zippy dipping sauce.

The chicken wings were excellent, as I've come to expect from the Korean + fried chicken combination. It was somewhat saucier than the New York version, but with that characteristic batter-less crust. Yum...

There was also a jug of some sort of murky rice wine. It was sweet and innocuous-tasting. I tried to watch my refills, as I was dealing with a bit of travel fatigue. Also, I've known some innocuous-tasting Asian liquors that will knock you flat on your ass without any warning signs. Drinker beware.

From my quick stroll around, I already love my friends' neighborhood. I understand it's close to a university and that probably explains the active nightlife and proliferation of cheap, casual eateries. I'm excited for the next few days. Kathy and Ron have been in town long enough to develop a restaurant repertoire and I get the benefit of their experience!

Seoul City Guide

TOFU:

• Tofu House

DUMPLINGS:

• Sinpo Mandoo

MISC:

• Old Tea Shop

Note: You can also search for other Seoul blog entries using the tag "KOR-Seoul."