Bubby's

Occasion: Dinner with Yining before Nerd Nite
Location: Bubby's on Main Street in Brooklyn, tucked under the Manhattan Bridge (bubbys.com)
Edibles: pulled pork tacos and a milkshake for me; a burger for Yining, with a side of collard greens

Musings: Tonight was actually my second time in this place, the first occasion being Rachel W. and Simon's wedding. The space is actually perfect for a smallish wedding - there's a raised area that works great as dance floor and a nice long bar that wraps around behind it. Tables can be set up alongside the ground floor windows (stunning view!!) and the menu makes for a nice, casual event.

For dinner, Bubby's is a bit of a bust. It's never a good sign when you walk into a place on Friday night and it's pretty much empty. I was psyched to try the fried chicken.... before being told that it would take 35 minutes. Why would it take 35 min to make fried chicken? I mean, don't you have a deep fryer up to temp for fries and stuff?

Yining's burger was average; I note that the collard greens were nicely done (I thought I could taste apple cider vinegar). My tacos were okay, but both Móle and the Endless Summer foodtruck are vastly superior.

Oh, and yeah - when your milkshake costs $7? It shouldn't taste like it was made from a powder. Shake Shack's kicks your ass.

Very disappointing, Bubby's.

The Redhead

Occasion: Dinner with Gabrielle and Winnie
Location: The Redhead on 13th St between 1st and 2nd (theredheadnyc.com)
Edibles: sausage flatbread; shrimp and grits; buttermilk fried chicken; homemade tater tots; bacon brussel sprouts; dessert - sticky toffee pudding, apple cobbler, beignets

Musings: Knowledge is power. Or, as G.I. Joe used to say, "Knowing is half the battle." (I always wondered what the other half was. And then I realized: winning.) Gabrielle used to live in this neighborhood, and so knows this place pretty well. She pointed us toward a few things that I wouldn't necessarily have ordered going in blind, and her advice was flawless.

We started with the sausage flatbread. Sounds unremarkable, but it was really crisp and the sausage was really quality stuff. Yum. The shrimp and grits were lovely - the sofrito in the sauce really made this dish, I thought. The tater tots and the brussel sprouts were nice, but didn't really blow me away. I'd skip these on future visits; there's really enough food without having to order extra sides.

That buttermilk fried chicken - in a word, spectacular. I think they brined the chicken. It was really moist and savory. Great crunchy crust. And perfect sides. The spinach and apple salad on the side was particularly addictive, and just the thing to refresh the palate.

I also had a great cocktail (the Ginger Snap - ginger syrup, rum and citrus) and a great dessert (sticky toffee pudding). Thumbs up! Thanks to Winnie and Gabrielle for squeezing this visit in before the end of the year.

[unidentified bar in Seoul]

Occasion: My first adventure in Seoul!
Location: a bar in Shinchon - location upon request (my hosts Kathy and Ron will know exactly where it is)
Edibles: big plate o' fried things; Korean fried chicken

Musings: The big plate o' fried things included such diverse items as zucchini, fake crab, spam, sausage and tofu, with a zippy dipping sauce.

The chicken wings were excellent, as I've come to expect from the Korean + fried chicken combination. It was somewhat saucier than the New York version, but with that characteristic batter-less crust. Yum...

There was also a jug of some sort of murky rice wine. It was sweet and innocuous-tasting. I tried to watch my refills, as I was dealing with a bit of travel fatigue. Also, I've known some innocuous-tasting Asian liquors that will knock you flat on your ass without any warning signs. Drinker beware.

From my quick stroll around, I already love my friends' neighborhood. I understand it's close to a university and that probably explains the active nightlife and proliferation of cheap, casual eateries. I'm excited for the next few days. Kathy and Ron have been in town long enough to develop a restaurant repertoire and I get the benefit of their experience!

Momotaro

Occasion: Our first proper dinner in Tokyo
Location: Momotaro in the Ebisu neighborhood of Tokyo (description and exact location in this article)
Edibles: lots o' chicken and skewers - details below.....

Musings: My sister was in Tokyo for business last year, and got taken to this place for dinner. I figured if Sony folks would take business guests here, it must be pretty legit. It wasn't too difficult to find (look for the KFC as a landmark) and, upon entering, I was pleased to see that it was a) tiny, and b) full of actual Japanese people. We ordered the tasting menu, about $35 per person, and waited for the magic to happen.

They started out with a bang - our first dish was chicken sashimi with raw sliced onions and grated ginger. Not for the faint of heart. I was immediately excited, but my mom refused to eat it. My thought process: if they dare to serve it, they must really trust their supplier. (They used to serve chicken sashimi at Yakitori Totto. They took it off the menu a couple of years ago during the avian flu epidemic, and I've always kicked myself for not trying it when I could.)

The chicken sashimi was lovely, very silky and subtle. Would I eat it again? Absolutely. But it wasn't SO special that I feel the need to seek it out stateside.

A proliferation of skewers followed: gizzard; chicken oyster (a part of the thigh); knee; chicken with scallion; chicken meatball; liver with a soy glaze; chicken neck; chicken "entrails" (I still have no idea what this was).

The liver and the neck were wonderful. I don't order liver a lot, but I do really enjoy it when it's prepared well. The chicken oyster was a little greasy compared to Totto's version. Momotaro's meatball was indisputably inferior to Totto's as well. The gizzard and the knee were a tad gristle-y and chewy for my taste (I don't usually order those) but objectively well-executed.

More skewers came: bacon and cheese; bacon and tomato; quail eggs; shiitake and peppers with sauce and bonito; some other kind of mushroom, possibly porcini or matsutake. The quail eggs were surprisingly delicate and tasty.

We got a couple of fried dishes next: deep-fried chicken strips; deep-fried knee; deep-fried something cartilaginous - I thought it was perhaps the keelbone.

We got a salad with some more chicken sashimi, some cold summer rolls with a garlicky sauce and some liver pâté on crostini....

.... and finally some onigiri (rice cakes).

Whew - what a meal! I ended up being a little divided on the chef's tasting. On the one hand, we undoubtedly ate some amazing things that we wouldn't otherwise have ordered. On the other hand, I'm familiar enough with yakitori that I could have done a decent job ordering à la carte, and saved myself crunching through quite a lot of chicken knees....

Bottom line: it was a great meal and I would certainly recommend Momotaro. But I'm also quite smug for NYC that we have some amazing yakitori right here.

Kitchenette

Occasion: Brunch with Ben and Rebecca in our old law school stomping grounds
Location: Kitchenette on Amsterdam between 122nd and 123rd (kitchenetterestaurant.com) [Note: another location downtown on Chambers]
Edibles: lumberjack breakfast for me, with berry pancakes, eggs, turkey sausage; omelet for Rebecca; blueberry French toast and a Bloody Mary (an unusual one made with white wine and wasabi) for Ben

Musings: Usually crazy crowded, we inadvertently hit the sweet spot after the regular semester but before summer session when Columbia is deserted.

Kitchenette's food appeals to that inexplicable Southern belle in me. (Also the lumberjack in me, I guess.) This plate made me SO happy when it arrived:

The pancakes were thick and fluffy and the turkey sausage was a nice departure from the usual breakfast meats. Two minor dings: Ben's French toast was too dense and cake-y for my taste, and the cheese grits that came with Rebecca's omelet were deemed too salty by her and too thick by me.

The bakery case is worth a look-see. While waiting for Ben and Rebecca to arrive, it took everything I had not to buy a whole pie to take home (knowing from experience that I would not have the room to eat any dessert). Dinner here is likewise excellent. I'm particularly fond of the turkey meatloaf, buttermilk-honey fried chicken and mac and cheese.

Tapastree [closed]

Occasion: Dinner with high school buds Tania, Warren, Bib and Alfred
Location: Tapastree on Robson off Denman (tapastree.ca)
Edibles: buttermilk fried chicken with aioli; flatiron steak with gorgonzola sauce; chicken livers with tomatoes, brandy and black pepper; duck confit with cranberry compote; lamb chops; tomato bocconcini avocado salad; grilled asparagus; ahi tuna with ponzu and Chinese mustard; wild mushrooms with goat cheese on toast; sticky toffee pudding; crème brûlée

Musings: I've been coming here for ages. Ages. So long, in fact, that most of my Vancouver friends refer to it as "my" tapas place. (It was originally Sylvia's, and her ex Ollie's before her, but I've been the most devoted over the years.) Sadly, many of the dishes I loved best are no longer on the menu - I'm still mourning the loss of those amazing fried oysters - but the new offerings are wonderful too.

I think we ordered all of their meat dishes. My favorite was probably the fried chicken, with the steak and lamb running a close race for second.

The veggie dishes aren't slouches, though. The wild mushroom dish is a perennial favorite, and though I was outvoted on the Japanese eggplant this particular dinner, I usually get that as well. The asparagus we did order was decent, but I thought it was a tad overpriced at $9.

A shocking revelation did take place at the end of the meal, when the waitress came to take our dessert orders. It happened almost by accident. In the course of ordering our fancy coffees, we were (or at least I was) aghast to discover that the kitchen does not stock full fat milk!! Just 2%!!

Horrors.

Okay. First, how can you claim to offer a decent after-dinner coffee without full fat milk? Second - and more chilling - how do you make your crème brûlée?!?! (Which, despite its name, contains no cream. The custard is made with milk.) I understand not getting it through your bulk supplier but there's a Safeway just across the street - why not keep a few litres in the walk-in?

I calmed down a little after a generous dose of sticky toffee pudding. A little.

Dairy scandal aside, our varied and delicious meal, bottle of white, dessert, tip and tax came out to $45 a person. Karen and Josie, I'm looking forward to taking you guys here in February! I may bring my own milk.

Chop't

Occasion: Workday lunch
Location: Chop't on 51st between 6th and 7th (choptsalad.com) [Note: three other locations]
Edibles: Palm Beach salad with grilled shrimp, hearts of palm, avocado, tomato, cucumber and a simple lemon vinaigrette

Musings: Detox! After ten days of dulce de leche, empanadas, steak and wine galore, I've put myself on salad lunches this week.

I was a regular at the eastside Chop't in the Death Star days, and was glad to find a location within walking distance of my new office. My patronage here has been an exercise in trying to figure out how to maximize toppings per dollar.

Their house specials are one way to go: the Palm Beach is priced at $9.75 before tax but would cost $11.45 if you'd created it yourself à la carte (the avocado is $1.25 extra and the shrimp is a whopping $3.25). To anyone not living in NYC, the idea of $10+ for a lunch salad might seem obscene. I guess it is, but what are you going to do?

The other salad I like to get is my own creation: fried chicken, apples, grapes and cucumber, with the lemon vinaigrette. (I know, I know, it sort of violates the spirit of salad to put fried chicken in it. But it's REALLY good.)

Piece of Chicken

Occasion: Take-out lunch

Location: Piece of Chicken on 45th between 8th and 9th, closer to 9th
Edibles: rib special ($3) and candied yams ($2)

Musings: The ribs were disappointing - serves me right for getting ribs at a place called "Piece of Chicken." When you need to hack at barbeque with a knife, they haven't done it right. Sauce was good, though.

I feel like I need to have the fried chicken before I can really review this place. Stay tuned.

Boka

Occasion: Dinner with Amy
Location: Boka on St Marks between 2nd and 3rd
Edibles: Bon Chon Korean fried chicken (of course!); scallop appetizer; tuna-kimchi roll; shrimp and crab (called Boston) roll

Musings: We shared the cocktail special which was basically a bottle of soju poured into a hollowed-out watermelon with some watermelon juice and Sprite. It was a smallish watermelon, but the cocktail basically filled it to the brim. Our waiter described it as serving 3-4. We polished it off by ourselves. Let's just say we were pretty giggly by the end.

I'm a little bit at a loss to adequately describe the magnificence of Korean fried chicken. I'll try. It's incredibly crispy, juicy, delicious... nope, words fail me. Just try it. Seriously.

I thought the scallop app was sort of meh. The sushi was not cheap - about $10 per roll - but it was a pretty generous size. Amy liked the kimchi roll better; I liked the Boston roll better. Fun dinner overall.

[Note: By request, I will mention that we went to Bar 82 afterwards and played a game of pool. Amy kicked ass.]

Momofuku Ssäm Bar

Occasion: Casual dinner with Abby
Location: Momofuku Ssäm Bar on 2nd Ave at 13th (momofuku.com)
Edibles: steamed buns with pork belly, cucumber, hoisin sauce; fried chicken with corn pudding and pickled chanterelles; Abby had the spicy pork and rice cake dish with Chinese broccoli and crispy shallots

Musings: It was great to get seated right away! (It's not unusual to pass this restaurant and see twenty people crammed in the bar area and another twenty waiting outside.) Be forewarned that you have to deal with close quarters when seated at the communal table - the other diners are sitting right at your elbows. Also, I noted that the music got progressively louder during the course of our meal and we were yelling just to be heard by the end.

Momofuku's pork buns are among the best I've ever had. The bread is pillowy-soft and the pork is super tender. (Today's was on the fatty side, but then again I think pork fat is one of the most magnificent substances on earth.)

When I cut into it, the chicken had a bit of blush to it. I ate it, and didn't have a problem with it, but it's the kind of thing I think the waiter should mention. Something along the lines of, "We source our chicken very carefully and chef therefore feels comfortable cooking it to medium doneness. Is this okay, or would you prefer it be cooked longer?" Or perhaps I'm being generous in assuming it was intentional.

Abby's rice cake stir-fry dish was good, too. Aggressively seasoned, but still complicated and layered. It was a good meal, all in all. If you happen to be passing by and there's no wait, you might consider trying it out.