May 11, 2010

Mmmm... my mom's hot toddy

A cockail and a cure-all. (Don't freak out when you get to the third ingredient - my mom didn't start making this for us until we were, like, in college.)

juice of 1 whole lemon (just half if it's a really gigantic lemon)
honey to taste (I'm pretty impervious to acid so I use about 1 tbsp)
a good belt of whiskey or cognac
hot water to fill the mug

I like to throw the lemon husks into the mug - the hot water releases some of the oils in the zest. While it's hardly modern medicine, the lemon is a dose of vitamin C, honey is soothing for the throat and the booze is a helping hand to a good night's sleep.

May 10, 2010

99¢ Fresh Pizza


Occasion: Snack time! Any time!
Location: 99¢ Fresh Pizza on 34th between 2nd and 3rd
Edibles: pizza, natch

Musings: This place is not good news for my waistline. Walking past it four to eight times a day + the no-brainer price of 99¢ = a LOT of pizza. I have eaten more pizza since this place opened a few weeks ago than I probably ate in the entirety of 2009.

I think this pizza is as good as anything else you can find in the vicinity for three to four times the price but you need to manage your expectations, as we lawyers would say. The crust is bready and chewy (though I think they should keep it in the oven longer to develop some crunch), the cheese is decent, the service is fast. Business is brisk so the pizza's usually pretty fresh.

You can get toppings for 50¢ apiece, but that seems to undermine the whole point of 99¢ pizza. I load on the free "toppings" of parmesan, black pepper and Italian herbs from the little shakers. Nostalgia - just like I used to do as a student...

Top Chef Masters Season 2, Ep. 5

Original Air Date: May 5, 2010


1) I always wonder what kind of couple would choose to have their big fancy wedding catered in a day by reality show contestants.
2) Based on what they said (groom - meat and potatoes; bride - French and Asian), choosing the bride seemed to be a no-brainer. She's giving you a lot more latitude. Plus, there's no way you're going to let Susur cook his strongest cuisine if you can help it. BUT... I think Blue Team failed to account for the fact that the bride is always harder to please than the groom. The teams ended up being pretty evenly restricted, I thought.
3) Ballsy decision on Jody's part to go with lamb when the bride specifically said she didn't like it. But, then again, the judges' marks count for 75% of the total score.
4) Even before seeing the finished product, I could have told you that Jonathan Waxman wasn't the person to task with decorating the cake - his plates are always super sloppy. That cake looked like it had been trampled, or made by a 3-year-old. The couple should have gone with Susur's croquembouche for the cake pictures. (Incidentally, one way Blue Team could have made a gorgeous and easy wedding cake was to just ice it white and decorate it with fresh flowers.)
5) Why was the carrot cake green? Is that something BC hippies do?
6) To answer your bf's suggestion of marriage with a "F*ck you!" - that's pretty badass. Is Susur's gf really as blunt and salty as he makes her out to be? If so, I want to hang out with her. I bet Tony Bourdain would too.

May 8, 2010

Terrior, part II

Occasion: Drinks with James
Location: Terroir on E 12th at 1st Ave (wineisterroir.com)
Edibles: prosciutto; marinated cremini mushrooms; beet and orange salad; olive oil cake with rhubarb compote

Musings: Not as stellar a performance as on my first visit. I was a little miffed that the chef wouldn't share the secret fritata she had stashed in the oven, and the rhubarb was strangely salty and slimy (though both the waiter and the chef swore up and down that was how it was supposed to taste.)

Veselka

Occasion: Post-movie (Iron Man 2) brunch
Location: Veselka on 2nd Ave between 9th and St Marks (veselka.com)
Edibles: mushroom, spinch, cheddar omelet with potato pancake for me; French toast for Robert

Musings: Veselka has long been one of my favorite places to go after karaoke on St Marks, when the midnight munchies strike. They're more interesting than your standard diner, and the pierogies and potato pancakes really hit the spot.

I had never been here during the day before but it turns out their potato pancakes, heaped with applesauce and sour cream, are just as good in daylight when you're sober as they are in the wee hours when you're pretty buzzed (and hoarse from screaming "Livin' on a Prayer" multiple times at the top of your lungs).

May 5, 2010

Nam Son

(Post #200! Thanks to all my old faithfuls, and welcome to my newcomers!)

Occasion: Pho for Cinco de Mayo! Umm.... yeah.... The crew included Melissa and Tony, Sung and Mike, Alicia and Robert
Location: Nam Son on Grand between Bowery and Chrystie
Edibles: spring rolls; summer rolls; lemongrass noodles with beef and onion; bird's nest stir-fry; a giant burrito-like thing; three orders of pho with "everything" (assorted meats and tripes); spicy noodles; rice crêpes with ham; a colorful shaved ice dessert

Musings: All that and assorted beverages, for an amazing $17 per person after tip and tax. Thanks to Robert for sharing his pho place, and introducing us to many other Vietnamese culinary delights besides. (The restaurant recs were really flying! My fellow diners could teach a class on where to get good Southest Asian food in NYC. Mike and Sung, it was great to meet you and I can't wait to try Wondee Siam #1.)

My favorites were classics: the spring rolls, wonderfully crunchy and piping hot, and the pho. On the pho, don't be fooled by the bargain basement price of $6.25 - the bowl is absolutely HUMONGOUS and more than enough for three or more to share. The broth was great, and though I couldn't positively identify all the animal parts I fished out, hey, that's the spirit of adventure.

The lemongrass noodles with beef were good - I'd get them again, with a group. The flavors and textures in the rice crêpe dish struck me as kind of odd; it might be an acquired taste. I'd pass on the bird's nest stir-fry, which struck me as pretty ho-hum. But, all in all, it was a fantastic meal. Two thumbs up. [Postscript: I woke up the next day, still full.]

The carnage:

May 1, 2010

Top Chef Masters Season 2, Ep. 4

Original Air Date: April 28, 2010


1) I liked Maria's approach to the Quickfire. The soup-main-dessert composition was both creative and elegant.
2) Susur's pineapple ravioli idea was really cool but he should have chosen something other than red berries for the filling. Like maybe mango or citrus? The juice bleeding through the pineapple was a little CSI for me. He also threw, like, ten thousand other things on the plate and turned it into a crazy mess. A little restraint, dude.
3) Wow, Rick must have amazing relationships with both his ex and his current wife to make his situation work.
4) Is Sofia Vergara ridiculously good-looking or what? I'm glad she's not MY co-worker.
5) I wish the judges had said a little more about what made Susur's unremarkable-sounding chicken curry, like, the best food ever cooked. I mean, Julie Bowen liked it a lot, but based on the judges' table discussion I never would have guessed that he'd score as high as he did. But way to go, Susur! Go Canada!

April 27, 2010

Ali Baba


Occasion: Low-key birthday dinner for my brother
Location: Ali Baba on 34th betweeen 2nd and 3rd (alibabaturkishcuisine.com)
Edibles: small mixed appetizer; I had the doner kebab; he had the Mediterranean salad with chicken (though he ordered it with lamb)

Musings: My brother didn't feel like a night out, so instead we ate takeout at home and watched the new episode of House. As he said, simple pleasures. It occurs to me he's actually pretty smart for a young'un. Happy 21st, kid!

Despite its cringe-worthy name, Ali Baba serves some pretty awesome food. I love their mixed appetitzer. I get it all the time - it's the perfect warm weather dinner. It's got hummus, patlican salatast (a smoked eggplant dip), another eggplant concoction with tomatoes, ispanak (sauteed spinach) and lebni (yogurt with walnuts and dill). It comes with half a wheel of bread for dipping, and there's usually enough food to last me for two meals. They do have a heavy hand with the garlic, so be forewarned.

If eating with a friend, it's nice to get one of the meat dishes to round out the meal. The doner kebab is a classic, of course. I also like the iskender kebab, which is the shaved lamb over a bed of fried bread, doused with tomato sauce and yogurt. It's sloppy and hearty and wonderful - a little lasagne-like even. Their adana is decent too, if sometimes a tad dry.

April 23, 2010

Top Chef Masters Season 2, Ep. 3

Original Air Date: April 21, 2010


1) The Real Housewives are some of the worst guest judges I've ever seen. A pork dish is not "bad" just because you don't like pork. A food critic has to have a certain amount of objectivity: was a dish cooked skillfully - regardless of whether or not you personally liked the ingredients?
2) On a related note, Mark must be one hell of a chef to pull off a mussel custards with figs. That just sounds gross.
3) Ludo is not the endearing nutter I remember from last season. Is it just me, or was everything he said really THAT douche-y? He could take a few lessons from Thierry on how to represent his country.
4) Also, his dish with the raw vegetables, miso peanuts and Guinness caramel was just ridiculous. Irish stew isn't that far off from boeuf bourguignon - I say he could have found a way to leverage his classical French training.
5) Based on Jonathan's previous performances, I can totally believe that his dish was delicious. However, it looked like he poured potato soup over a steak dinner. Presentation is definitely not his forte.
6) Wylie's food is not really my thing but I'm still sad he didn't advance. He's really creative, and goofy and lovable. His wanting to pan-fry a chocolate chip cookie to make it cook faster was my favorite moment from last season.

April 16, 2010

Uva


Occasion: Pre-Brandy's dinner with Rebecca, Tessa and Dale
Location: Uva on 2nd between 77th and 78th (uvawinebar.com)
Edibles: to start, we shared a burrata with yellow tomatoes, fava beans and a balsamic glaze (I continue to be obsessed with burrata); I had the beet salad; Dale had the chicken salad; Rebecca had the cavatelli al pesto; Tessa had the ravioli; we passed around a slice of girella al cioccolato (chocolate-hazelnut cake) for dessert

Musings: Location is everything. A place like Uva with a decent atmosphere and decent food would probably survive okay in the crowded field of the LES. But out in the barrens of the UES, it's packed to the rafters.

I don't think I've ever been here for an evening that didn't include Brandy's (one of my happy places, along with the shoe department at Bergdorf's). But though I wouldn't go out of my way to come here, they do make a decent showing. The wine list is long and varied. Our dishes were flavorful and all of the portions were generous. I was particularly impressed by Rebecca's cavatelli - the pasta was nicely plump and tasted homemade to me. And the cake was divine.

April 15, 2010

Top Chef Masters Season 2, Ep. 2

Original Air Date: April 14, 2010


1) Not to be a hypocrite but I find it hard to believe that Kelly Choi, who looks gaunt even on TV, eats grilled cheese sandwiches on a regular basis.
2) From Ethiopia to Sweden... I bet Marcus has some stories to tell.
3) I don't understand how grits "mac and cheese" style are not just cheese grits. Also, Oseland, it's not "deconstructed" just because the shrimp is on the side instead of on top of the grits.
4) Why did David choose to serve his custard in an eggshell? That sort of pretentious restaurant trick is the exact opposite of the down-to-earth spirit of soul food.
5) I like a good comeback story as much as the next guy but Carmen's dish sounded boring, quite frankly. Pity vote? Dunno. Monica, David and Thierry did kind of screw her over. Marcus may have been a dick for refusing to help out, but at least he didn't set her back.

[Postscript on 3: I watched a rerun and finally figured out this dish. It looks like Monica made a béchamel cheese sauce to ladle on top of plain grits. It makes James Oseland's comment make slightly more sense. But I still don't understand A) why she didn't just make cheese grits; and B) why this is "mac and cheese" style since mac has the cheese sauce is mixed.]

April 14, 2010

Artisanal

Occasion: Drinks and fondue to celebrate Michael's new job!
Location: Artisanal at 32nd and Park (artisanalbistro.com)
Edibles: Artisanal blend fondue with fingerling potatoes and kielbasa


Musings: A cheese-lover's heaven. Artisanal has a similar vibe to Balthazar, but it's not nearly as much of a pain to get into. There's a cheese cave with a single table inside - I've never reserved it, but it looks really fun for a special occasion.

The fondue is great for brunch or dinner. Besides the basket of bread cubes it comes with, I love to get the fingerling potatoes and the apples. Wasn't crazy about the Spam-like kielbasa we ordered this time. (You can get a salad to share if you're feeling guilty about the complete lack of vegetables. I promise I'll still respect you.)

April 11, 2010

Motorino - Pizza Crawl Stop #4


Location: Motorino on 12th St between 1st and 2nd (motorinopizza.com)
Edibles: cremini mushroom and sweet sausage pizza, margherita pizza


Musings: Our last stop. Impressively, nine of eleven people who started the day lasted to the finish line. No one was, by any stretch of the imagination, hungry at this point but many were able to find a second wind.

Motorino is a fancier (and more expensive) place than the others we went to on the crawl, aimed at the same foodie audience as a Pulino's or Otto. We luckily got there in the late afternoon when the restaurant was mostly empty. Still, they were pretty nice about pulling together four tables for our group. Not knowing about our shenanigans, they were incredulous that we ordered so little food for so many people (the pizzas at Motorino are individual-sized, around 10").

There was a brunch pizza with eggs that sounded intriguing, but we settled on the cremini and sweet sausage and the classic margherita. The toppings on both pizzas were high quality. I was a big fan of the cremini and sausage, personally. The margherita was workmanlike but I was too pizza'ed out to work up any real enthusiasm.

Their crust could use some work - while nice and chewy, it was also pretty salty and aggressively charred. This location is pretty new so perhaps they're still getting used to the idiosyncrasies of their pizza oven.

My tally: I managed a slice of each, but they were pretty puny so I'll count it as one. Grand total: 4½. I think that's pretty respectable.

Artichoke - Pizza Crawl Stop #3


Location: Artichoke on 14th St between 1st and 2nd (artichokepizza.com)
Edibles: the eponymous artichoke pizza and margherita pizza

Musings: Yet another beast. I LOVED the artichoke slice. Really gooey and cheesy and full of umami! It's basically pizza topped with spinach-artichoke dip. Yum. I had a slight criticism for the crust, which was on the thick side and tasted slightly stale (which couldn't have been the case since the line was insane). Because of the thick crust and the richness of the toppings, one of their mammoth slices can easily be shared between two people.


The margherita had a slightly thinner, crunchier, almost cracker-like crust. Of the three tomato sauces tasted so far, this one was the least memorable. (Though I was also the least hungry at Artichoke, so factor in some bias.) My overall feel was that the slice was constructed in a somewhat sloppy manner - definitely not as much attention to detail or finesse as Totonno's.

They had a daily special with crab, which I'd be interested to taste another time. Of the two we did have, the artichoke slice was by far the superior.

My tally: A half slice each of the artichoke and the margherita, for a running total of 3½.

L&B - Pizza Crawl Stop #2


Location: L&B Spumoni Gardens on 86th St between 10th and 11th St in Brooklyn (spumonigardens.com)
Edibles: thick-crust Sicilian pizza


Musings: A totally different beast. A whole rectangular pie yields twelve hefty slices. The dough is nice and yeasty and the sauce is solid, a little spicier than Totonno's. The cheese is under the sauce, a good ¼ inch of it. A slight ding for the quality of the cheese - it tasted like grocery store processed mozzarella. Though yummy in its own way, this one is breadier than I like my pizzas.

My tally: A whole slice here, for a running total of 2½. I think at this point Tom was up to a group high score of five.

Totonno's - Pizza Crawl Stop #1


Occasion: Gary's Second Annual Pizza Crawl! Participants included Jill and Tom, Kristina and Ryan, Amanda and Chris, Adrienne, Jeannie, Debby and me.
Location: Totonno's Pizzeria Napolitano on Neptune Ave between 15th and 16th St in Brooklyn (totonnos.com) [Note: another location in Manhattan on 2nd between 26th and 27th - just a hop and skip away from my apt!]
Edibles: a white pizza and a regular pizza with tomato sauce (pictured below)


Musings: A no-frills neighborhood place. We ran into a local boys' soccer team celebrating with pies and root beers. It was very cute.

I thought Totonno's standard pie was outstanding. Thin, chewy crust with a good snap to it. Good structural integrity - not soggy at all. Fresh and zesty tomato sauce. The white pie was also tasty, if a touch too garlicky for me.

A few caveats. First, getting there. The closest subway stop is Coney Island / Stillwell Ave - all the way at the end of the line on the N, Q, D and F. It takes a good hour to get there from Manhattan, plus it's a bit of walk from the stop. Also, they don't serve single slices, only whole pies.

As good as the pizza was, I'm probably not going to be making the trip out to this location very much. But I will definitely be visiting the Manhattan location soon for a comparison. Stay tuned.

My tally: Trying to pace myself, I had a half slice of the white and a full slice of the tomato. So 1½ slices and counting.

April 10, 2010

Mmmm... brownie husband


I saw this and immediately thought, "I could totally go for a Bacon Husband."

Also, I want to be Tina Fey when I grow up.

Falai [closed]


Occasion: Dinner with James, after a wander through the Whitney Biennial
Location: Falai on Clinton between Rivington and Stanton (falainyc.com) - Note: Falai is closed
Edibles: celery root soup with goat cheese amuse bouche; I had the polenta bianca with chicken liver and dried dates to start; James had the smoked salmon bonbon with pine-infused crème fraîche mousse; we shared the eggless pasta with wild boar ragu; I had the scallop main; James had the lamb main; pre-dessert bites of a tiny cannoli and chestnut cake with vanilla gelato and chamomile tea; we shared the chocolate brioche for an actual dessert

Musings: A very long, narrow restaurant. I had a great seat facing their kitchen. I must say I'm very impressed that they're able to run a fine-dining restaurant out of a kitchen smaller my apartment's, no exaggeration. They had three chefs crammed in there. (I think desserts were relegated to the basement.) While the chefs were clearly very disciplined and focused, I think the menu suffered slightly from their space limitations.

I practically swooned over my first course, though. What a stunner. The starchy blandness of the polenta was the perfect background for the earthy, velvety richness of the chicken liver. The dates provided a nice accent note of sweetness. Mmmm..... just fabulous. James' salmon dish was gorgeous - a real work of art - but I didn't think he was too impressed by it. It was also too small and fussy to share, always a demerit in my book.

The pasta dish was pretty amazing. The rustic-looking, hand-rolled noodles had a great chewy texture. I thought the dough had olive oil in it, but was informed that it's just flour and water. Apparently, Falai gets a pasta guru to come in during the day, sit in the basement and just make noodles by hand for hours at a time. As a side note, it's too bad they don't serve their pasta tasting on the weekend.

My scallop main was a disappointment. They definitely overcooked the scallops, and also failed to trim the rubbery side muscle off one of them - quite the faux pas for a fancy restaurant. I enjoyed my bite of the lamb dish but I did notice James sawing away at it. The chocolate dessert was yummy, so at least the meal ended on a good note.

Two critiques. First, too many things were served lukewarm or at room temp - the limitations of the small kitchen I mentioned above. When you've got no space, you've got to rely heavily on dishes and sides you can finish in advance. Second, they seemed to be much more concerned with how beautiful the dishes looked than how good they tasted (with the exception of the homely-looking but delicious pasta). I recommend a re-ordering of priorities.

Though it was a slightly uneven meal, I did enjoy most of what I ate. I'd come again for the polenta, and to try other pasta dishes.

April 9, 2010

Klee


Occasion: Dinner with Jill and Elizabeth
Location: Klee on 9th Ave between 22nd and 23rd (kleebrasserie.com)
Edibles: mini lobster rolls and the carbonara special for me; Elizabeth and Jill shared a cheese plate and the spätzle "mac and cheese"; Elizabeth also had the Alsatian pizza and Jill, pea soup

Musings: I'd give Klee a grade of B overall. In sum: nice atmosphere; hit and miss on the food; a bit pricey.

My mini lobster rolls were decent enough for the $9 price. Elizabeth and Jill did not have as much luck with their app, the mini pork buns. The filling was described as "pork confit" on the menu but was in actuality a slice of pork belly, 95% fat and 5% meat. Neither Elizabeth nor Jill found it remotely edible. Credit to the restaurant, they immediately took it back and off the bill.

Their replacement - the spätzle "mac and cheese" - was much better. Creamy and cheesy with tender homemade noodles, it was very indulgent and tasty, though pretty expensive at $15 for a medium-sized serving. My carbonara wasn't as good as the spätzle. It was a bit gloppy and had a strange and completely superfluous garnish of trout roe. I ordered the half portion and, for such a heavy dish, it was plenty.

I thought the little shot glasses of complimentary passionfruit punch at the end were a nice touch.

April 8, 2010

Mmmm... avocado

It's getting to be that time of year when avocados are cheap and plentiful! I've been keeping a few on hand in my fruit bowl for a quick snack. No cooking required, so it's perfect for when you charge in the front door, absolutely STARVING. Rich and buttery, avocados are a great spread for sandwiches. I sometimes use a generous smear in the place of mayo.

Two salad recipes below, one very easy, the other slightly trickier. When your ingredients are fresh and in season, you barely have to do anything to them at all. (But here's the rub: when you're barely cooking them, your ingredients have to be great.) The fat in avocados is the "good" kind, monounsaturated. According to Wikipedia, avocados are also relatively high in fiber and have more potassium than bananas.

Texture-wise, I like it when avocados are soft and unctuous. The easiest way to tell if one's ripe is to give it a little squeeze. Be gentle - apply the amount of force it would take to just bruise a peach. The avocado should have a definite give under your fingers. If the skin feels like it's pulled away from the fruit, it's a bit overripe and will not keep very long in your home. For eating, overripe is preferable to underripe - nothing's worse than an avocado that's hard and crunchy.

Shucking: Slice the avocado lengthwise, cutting around the pit. Twist to separate the two halves. I then (very carefully!) sink the heel of my knife into the pit and give it a twist to pop it out.

Tomato, Bocconcini and Avocado Salad

Slice a medium-sized grid into each avocado half, while still in the skin. Using a spoon, scoop out the avocado - it should come out in nice cubes. For every avocado you're using, dice 1 - 2 plum tomatoes (more flavorful than beefsteak, cheaper than hothouse) and a handful of bocconcini. If your bocconcini are very small, they may not need to be cut at all; the kind I got from the FreshDirect deli, about the size of cherry tomatoes, I sliced in half.

In a large bowl, combine your ingredients and pour in a glug of good olive oil and a dash of vinegar - red wine, white wine, cider, almost any kind besides plain white, which should only be used as a household cleaner, and balsamic, which is too murky and aggressive. (See how easy? You don't even have to make a proper vinaigrette.) Season with salt and pepper. Can throw in some fresh basil if you have it. Toss. Eat!

Avocado and Grapefruit Salad

Instead of cubing the avocado as above, I like to use the spoon to scoop out big parabolic discs. Here is the only tricky part - you have to suprême the grapefruit. Martha Stewart's instructions here. Dress the avocado and grapefruit segments with some juice squeezed from the de-fruited core, olive oil, salt and pepper. If you use a Ruby Red grapefruit the colors are just gorgeous, which is why I like to serve this salad spread out on a plate. Can garnish with a little grated parmesan.

Top Chef Masters Season 2, Ep. 1

Original Air Date: April 7, 2010
The Masters are back, baby!


1) Last season must have done well - prize money is WAY up this season. It looks like they're also tinkering with the format? I think it made more sense when the score was cumulative over the two events.
2) Clamato was a smart pick for a gas station ingredient. The crazy red dye Cheetos, not so much. Govind, you're pretty but dumb. And kind of whiny.
3) I think the rice cakes (Team Ana and Jerry) should have won the Quickfire for more creative use of ingredients. Bread pudding is hardly a stretch.
4) Wasn't really blown away by any of the Elimination dishes. None of the duos made a ton of sense together, and half the dishes sounded like they had pretty big execution issues. Or maybe it was just the way they edited the judges' comments to be so noncommital.
5) I swear Kelly and Gael have both had plastic surgery since last season. Kelly's eyes bug out a lot more than they used to, and Gael either had a bad chemical peel or I guess it could have been a bad sunburn.

April 7, 2010

Mmmm... braised short rib with tagliatelle

Folks, I have not been this excited about a recipe in a long time. Beef on the bone, tomatoes, wine, bacon.... as Ina would say, how bad can that be?! I sincerely hope that you will either make this for yourself, or talk me into making it for you. Creative bribery encouraged.

Braised Short Rib with Tagliatelle
(based on Giada's recipe)

2 lbs of beef short rib
4 slices thick-cut bacon
1 very large onion, chopped
5 carrots, peeled and chopped
14oz can of crushed tomatoes
1 can beef broth
½ bottle of a nice red wine with some personality
2 bay leaves
salt and pepper to taste
2 packets of fresh tagliatelle (or other wide noodle)

The short rib is a one-pot deal. Advance warning that it will be stewing for about 4 hours - you will want a nice heavy pot. I, of course, used my trusty yellow Le Creuset (as pictured in the crappy bb photo above).

Chop up the bacon and throw it into the pot over medium heat to render (i.e. cook out the fat). When the bacon is crispy and browned, remove the bacon (and reserve) but leave the fat.

Sear the short ribs in the bacon fat. If you've never seen one, they tend to be almost square. You want to be patient with this step, and develop a good brown crust on at least four of the six sides. It will pay dividends later. Browning = flavor. You will probably need to do this in two batches. Remove all the browned short ribs to a plate.

Without cleaning the pot, throw in the chopped carrots and onion. (Some fat will render from the short ribs too, which should provide ample cooking oil.) Cook them until they start to brown, too.

Deglaze with red wine. Give the bottom of the pot a good scraping to liberate all the tasty brown bits. Add the tomatoes, beef broth, bay leaves. Season cautiously with salt and pepper (watch the salt in particular - the beef broth may have a little or a lot, you will be reducing the liquid, and you will be adding the bacon back later). Return the short ribs to the pot; the meat should mostly be submerged in the braising liquid. Bring to a simmer and cover.

Cook covered for 1.5 hours. Check on it once in a while to make sure nothing's sticking to the bottom. At the end of that time, uncover and check seasoning (it should still be somewhat under-salted at this point).

Cook for *another* 1.5 hours, uncovered. The braising liquid will gradually reduce and thicken into a sauce - it's okay if the beef is no longer fully submerged. As before, stir once in a while. [During the long simmer, you might pass the time by watching a movie or two, and enjoying the half bottle of wine you conveniently have on hand. You can always open another one for dinner.]

Noodles: About 20 min before the beef is due to be done, put a big pot of water on to boil. I strongly recommend using a fresh pasta - the grocery store kind, usually found in a refrigerated case near the dairy and eggs, is fine. Get the widest noodle you can find - tagliatelle ideally but fettucine will do. Cook the pasta al dente.

While the pasta is cooking, remove the short ribs and shred the meat using two forks. The meat should fall off the bone and be very tender and easy to shred. Return the shredded meat to the pot with the sauce, and fold in. Sprinkle in the bacon. Check seasoning one last time.

With this dish, I like to mix the pasta and the sauce in the pot and serve it pre-mixed, as opposed to ladling the sauce over the plain noodles. Garnish with a little grated parmesan or chopped parsley if you have it. Alternatively, Giada grates on a little dark chocolate.

The full recipe - 2 lbs of short ribs and two packets of pasta - will make about six generous servings. You could theoretically halve it. But a full recipe is about the same amount of work, so why not make extra? The shredded short rib sauce refrigerates beautifully and will keep a little over a week - it can be two meals for three people, three meals for two people or even six meals for one person, provided you're not the kind of person who gets tired of eating one dish over and over.

(Important Note: If you're refrigerating the sauce, DON'T put in the bacon until you're reheating it to eat. If you leave the bacon soaking in the sauce, the salt will leach out and make your sauce too salty. I learned this one the hard way. Can be ameliorated with a touch of sugar, but better not to mess it up in the first place.)

Alternate serving suggestion: Instead of shredding the short rib, you can serve a whole one (or two) nestled in a bed of polenta or mashed potatoes, and spoon some sauce over it.

Enjoy!

April 3, 2010

Pulino's


Occasion: Pre-opera (Partenope) dinner with Melissa, Tony and Alicia
Location: Pulino's on Bowery and E Houston (pulinosny.com)
Edibles: gamberi (shrimp) pizza; salsiccia (sausage and broccoli rabe) pizza; fazzoletti (a crêpe-like creation stuffed with cheese and lamb ragu); asparagus with ramps, rhubarb and black pepper ricotta; a skillet of sausage and peppers - all eaten family-style

Musings: When I first walked in, I had the strongest sense of déjà vu. The backlit bar, the white tile, the pillars, the converted warehouse feel - all of it a dead ringer for Schiller's (which, as far as I know, is unaffiliated). It was pretty crowded and hectic, even though dinner service didn't officially begin for another 20 minutes, at 6:00. Speaking of which, a little suggestion: start earlier.

If you're going to identify yourself primarily as a pizzeria - and a gourmet, pricey one at that - your pizza's got to be outstanding. I found Pulino's to have good-quality toppings, but the crust definitely needs work. The relatively small pie was extremely soggy in the middle; if you try to pick up a slice, it just flops over and falls apart in your hand.

I thought the asparagus dish had too many components that didn't quite come together. The fazzoletti was decent but nothing exciting. The sausage and peppers I liked, but it came to the table sort of room temperature and I would have liked it hotter.

Pulino's is pretty new and, in my opinion, still working out a lot of kinks. This place has gotten a lot of press and will draw flocks of New York's fickle foodies for the next few weeks. My rec would be to wait until the furor dies down and see if they've really got the goods to stay open long term.

Executive chef Nate Appleman, of "The Next Iron Chef" fame, pictured with Alicia and Mel.

Union Square market


Edibles: fresh apple cider; a bag of apple cider donuts; a giant ginger cookie; a block of pumpkin gingerbread; slabs of a sharp cheddar and an aged alpine cheese; a Granny Smith apple

Sunshine!! The kind that makes you want to fling out your arms and burst into song! Still a tad chilly, but more than tolerable with the help of a nice warm scarf and some legwarmers. Sylvia and I wandered, grazed, gossiped about boys. A perfect afternoon.

(We also came across a public group pillowfight in the square. Only in New York.)


April 2, 2010

Northern Spy Food Co.


Occasion: Dinner with Winnie (in from LA) and Gabrielle
Location: Northern Spy on 12th between A and B (northernspyfoodco.com)
Edibles: I had the polenta with greens, mushrooms, crème fraîche and a poached egg on top; Gabrielle had the sweet potato risotto; Winnie had the pork terrine followed by the pork loin main; we all shared the meatball special, and also split a slice of carrot cake for dessert


Musings: Great little neighborhood spot. I loved the décor, from the robin's-egg-blue bench to the wallpaper panels to the charmingly distressed wood everywhere (probably fake, but still).

I saw someone tucking into a plate of meatballs when we walked in and immediately fixated on them. I'm pleased to report that they were flavorful and satisfyingly hearty - less pleased that they're not a regular menu item. My polenta dish was a good gap-filler. (No, that's not quite fair. It's a good dish in its own right but could only play second fiddle tonight, what with me in a meatball haze.)

The cake was a little heavy and piled with too much frosting for my taste. For drinks, I can recommend their house cider and Winnie raved about the homemade blood orange seltzer.

March 27, 2010

Veritas


Occasion: Pre-movie (Alice in Wonderland) dinner with James
Location: Veritas on 20th between B'way and Park Ave S (veritas-nyc.com)
Edibles: so many yummy things - described in detail below

Musings: Been on my To Do list for ages, and it did not disappoint. Dinner here is an Event.

The wine list, the restaurant's proudest achievement, is a daunting volume filled with hundreds of choices. It was mostly wasted on me. I was very happy to abdicate the choice of wine to James, and found our bottle of medium-bodied red tasty enough.

The food... now that, I did appreciate.

Amuse bouche: An artistically-presented trio of crab wrapped in cucumber with mango sauce, cucumber cream with shrimp and mango, and cucumber sorbet. Dainty and delicious, though obviously designed for warmer weather than we had that dreary day. I guess the chef is longing for spring just like the rest of us!

Appetizer: On the waiter's recommendation, I made a last minute switch from the scallop salad to the lobster nage. (Thanks to him for the great advice!) The lobster sauce was so incredibly rich and savory - like the essence of a thousand lobsters distilled into a few spoonfuls of liquid bliss. Fantastic! James was kind enough to share one of his crispy frog legs with me. I was as happy to eat it as I usually am to eat things that are deep-fried, but I thought the flavor of the meat got lost in the crunch and the oiliness.

Main: The veal chop, medium rare. It's a Flintstonian-looking chop, but thankfully carved down to a few perfectly pink slices for each of us. The meat was so unbelievably tender that it actually creased where one slice lay against another. Best veal I've ever had, full stop. On the side was a whimiscal truffled pastina.

Pre-dessert: a tiny rhubarb tart and a diminutive strawberry shortcake

Dessert: A slightly weaker course. I had the honey tangerine panna cotta. The flavor was good but the panna cotta was tough from too much gelatin, and the tuile cookie tasted stale. Maybe the cheese plate would have been a better choice.

All in all, I was very impressed. The chef demonstrated real mastery of his craft.

March 26, 2010

Stonehome Wine Bar, part II

Occasion: Drinks with Liz, Jana and Olivia
Location: Stonehome Wine Bar on Lafayette Ave between Elliot Place and Portland Ave in Brooklyn (stonehomewinebar.com)
Edibles: gingerbread cake

Musings: Another brief encounter with Stonehome. We were looking for a mellow place to have some wine and chat, and Stonehome really fit the bill - bustling but not loud or crowded, with nice glowy indirect lighting. The bar was full, but we managed to finagle a table after some negotiations with the waitress. A fortunate happenstance, since I wouldn't have ordered dessert otherwise. AMAZING gingerbread cake.

Boca Chica


Occasion: Liz in town from Brussels!
Location: Boca Chica on the corner of 1st and 1st (a.k.a. the nexus of the universe)
Edibles: avocado salad and skirt steak chimichurri for me (didn't really taste anyone else's food since I was enjoying my own so much)

Musings: We ended up here after Lil' Frankie's got pissy about the logistics of our large party (I mean, come on. It's New York - people are always coming late or leaving early.)

I was completely frazzled from dashing all over town on errands and traversing nearly the entire length of Manhattan to get to dinner (yes, I was one of the guilty late ones!) so the prompt service on my passionfruit margarita was a good start. They also had tasty thick-cut plantain chips on the table to munch on instead of the usual stale tortilla chips.

The $5 avocado salad was nothing special - basically half an avocado, sliced and fanned out, dunked in vinaigrette and plopped on a little side plate with some pickled onions. Either the price or the presentation could use some rethinking. They were redeemed by the skirt steak, which was tender, flavorful and perfectly cooked. The chimichurri was fresh and bold, if a bit overloaded with garlic. The enormous plate with sides of rice, beans, and a delightful coleslaw-like salad of cabbage with cilantro and tomatoes, was a very reasonable $17.50. Plenty for two to share, even by my meat-tooth standards.

I remember Jana liked her dish (something porky?) and Shana and her husband were pleased with their food, while Liz was indifferent on her sandwich (the Cubano?). If I had to choose, I'd probably give the edge to nearby Molé's superb carnitas tacos. But if Molé's tiny dining room is full (or Lil' Frankie's is giving you attitude), Boca Chica is a great fall-back.

March 21, 2010

Almond

Occasion: Brunch with James, pre-opera matinee (Madama Butterfly)
Location: Almond on 22nd between B'way and Park Ave S, the site of the old Borough Food and Drink (almondnyc.com) [Note: sister restaurant to Almond in Bridgehampton]
Edibles: I had the duck hash with poached egg; James had the Nutella waffles and a side of bacon

Musings: Not as close or as cosy as Penelope, but Almond gets added to the list of decent brunch places in the neighborhood.

The hash was SPECTACULAR. Gourmet but not fussy, it was a generous lumberjack plateful of fried potatoes with delicious shreds of duck and crispy nuggets of crackling, presided over by a silky poached egg. If you would normally dismiss this dish because you think duck is too heavy for brunch, I urge you to reconsider. It's heaven!

James' waffle was good too, though a little too dessert-y for my personal brunch tastes. The bacon, always horribly, inexplicably expensive at brunch, tasted like it had been cooked in the deep fryer - a slight ding for that.

Another slight ding for the stingy cup of coffee, which the waiter was asked to refill but forgot, and cold milk, which made my drink lukewarm from the get-go. (If you're thinking, "She's asking a lot - hot milk for coffee," I clarify that I asked for my coffee to be filled just three-quarters of the way to leave room for a lot of milk. A smart waiter would have figured it out.)

I'll be back for the hash, for sure. May bring my own mug next time.

March 20, 2010

Sorella

Occasion: Dinner with Elizabeth
Location: Sorella on Allen between Delancey and Broome (sorellanyc.com)
Edibles: shared apps of argula salad with pears and roasted brussels sprouts with apples; I had the agnolotti stuffed with beef with sage butter sauce for my main; Elizabeth had the beet risotto

Musings: They were booked up in the main dining room so we ate at the bar. I loved the vibe at Sorella - dim and casually chic, not too loud. I also really liked their quirky music selection and was bopping along to it most of the night.

The food... The salad was lovely and surprisingly substantial. The brussels sprouts (really a side vegetable) were nicely roasted and flavorful, if somewhat bogged down by the heavy sauce on top, something like a Russian dressing. Elizabeth's risotto was tasty, once you got past the disconcerting bright magenta color. My main was the weakest dish of the night. The pasta was hard and gritty and the butter sauce was a poor choice to accompany - too oily and heavy.

Although it wasn't the most impressive meal, I did really like the atmosphere and there were glimmers of greatness in the food. If the opportunity arose I would definitely come again, try some different things on the menu.

March 18, 2010

Sakagura


Occasion: Post-theatre (Glass Menagerie) bite with Michael
Location: Sakagura on 42nd between 2nd and 3rd (sakagura.com)
Edibles: gyu miso nikomi shredded beef back rib stewed in miso with grated daikon; tsukune chicken meatballs; surumeika yaki grilled squid; a seared scallop special

Musings: After wandering aimlessly around midtown for 20 minutes after the show, my brain finally clicked on Sakagura. In the culinary wasteland of midtown, Sakagura is a welcome oasis and it's one of the very best options in the area for late-night. Food is served until midnight on weekdays, until 1am Fridays and Saturdays.

I'm always tickled by their location. You go into a regular-looking office building, down some fire stairs, and enter into a little pocket of Tokyo. The main room has a warm, relaxed and welcoming atmosphere. There's a nice long bar and lots of tables and little booths. They also have very cute bathrooms, built into giant barrels.

It was really more of a snack than a proper dinner, but it was exactly what I wanted at that moment. Everything we had was delicious, very delicately and thoughtfully made. The scallop dish was a highlight and the beef rib was my favorite, absolute perfection in texture and flavor. Four dishes, a round of draft beers, tip and tax came to about $25 a person.

I haven't been here enough times or eaten enough of the menu is give Sakagura Hall of Fame status... yet. But tonight's dishes were just exquisite and it's definitely headed in that direction.

March 17, 2010

Shun Lee


Occasion: Jill's birthday!
Location: Shun Lee on 65th between W Central Park and B'way (shunleewest.com) [Note: there's another location on the east side, but they don't seem to be very closely affiliated and their menus are quite different]
Edibles: a mixed appetizer plate with a xiao long bao, cold sesame noodles, a fried shrimp ball and a pork (I think) and veggie lettuce cup; a mixed main course plate with orange beef, stir-fried prawns, some kind of chicken and a bowl of fried rice with Chinese sausage

Musings: First, happy birthday Jill! I'm glad we got to see you to celebrate before you jetted off for your beach vacay!

As for the restaurant... My impressions of Shun Lee previous to this visit were that it was a moderately nice Chinese restaurant, if slightly overpriced. They used to have a very good tea-smoked duck (not on their menu anymore) that I would occasionally treat myself to if I was in the neighborhood.

Tonight, I think they took advantage of our group inertia to play fast and loose with a "prix fixe" menu. What we should have done was: A) ordered wine by the bottle; B) each picked one entree (ranging from about $18 - $30) and eaten family-style. Instead, for the okay meal they picked out for us, the bill was an absolutely ASTRONOMICAL $80 per person. I felt especially bad for our one vegetarian, who had a plate of tofu stir-fry and paid the same as the rest of us.

This is decidedly not the economic environment to be pulling this kind of stunt, Shun Lee - shame on you. I will not be back.

March 10, 2010

Bar Jamón


Occasion: A drink and a snack with Elizabeth
Location: Bar Jamón on 17th and Irving, just around the corner from Casa Mono (barjamonnyc.com)
Edibles: tortilla española and cured tuna with gazpacho salad

Musings: A great place to hang out - if can you can get in. It's a little dark cubby of a bar, seating about fifteen. It was blessedly not too crowded tonight. I believe it was originally intended as a sort of waiting room for Casa Mono, but I come to Bar Jamón all the time, completely unrelated to Casa Mono.

Elizabeth and I did some catching up over quartinos of wine. Wine-wise, the selection is not very broad but I'm pretty easygoing - give me a decent white that's not Chardonnay and I'll call it a day.

She'd already eaten so I had the food all to myself. The tortilla was a generous enough portion for $7. Good, but a little bit dense and dry. The tuna dish was a great concept and was seasoned perfectly with just the right amount of acid; unfortunately the tuna itself was a little rubbery - either cured way too long, or cooked through first and then marinated. I would have gone with more of a ceviche style.

Minor critiques aside, it was a nice, light dinner and a great way to decompress after a busy day. I'm sure I'll be back soon.

March 7, 2010

Mmmm... Oscar party snacks

Occasion: My annual Oscar party (Go Kathryn Bigelow and Hurt Locker!)
Edibles: chicken satay and crudités; chow mein with bok choi

Satay Dip
(based on Ina's more complicated recipe which you can find here; her product pictured below)

1 tbsp olive oil
1 tsp dark sesame oil (it's pretty strong)
2 tbsp red wine vinegar
¼ cup brown sugar
2 tbsp soy sauce
½ cup smooth peanut butter

In a large bowl, dissolve the brown sugar in the vinegar and soy sauce. Whisk in all the other ingredients. Can also make in a food processor.

For the chicken, I just pan-fried boneless, skinless chicken thighs in some olive oil. Season with salt and pepper, and splash in a little white wine. When cooled, slice and put on bamboo skewers.

Chow Mein with Bok Choi

⅓ cup Chinese barbeque sauce (the Niu Tou "Cow Head" brand is best)
1 package of fresh pasta, cooked and drained (can substitute dried pasta)
2 lbs of baby bok choi, the ones with the green stems, washed and chopped
a splash of soy sauce
[optional: 1 steak, sliced]

In a wok or large sauté pan, give the bbq sauce a bit of a toast until it's fragrant. [If you're using the steak, put it in here and give it a quick fry.] Throw in the bok choi and stir-fry until mostly cooked - don't overdo it, it's nice to still have a little snap to them. (If you're up for it, put in the stems first - they take longer to cook. But it'll be just fine if you dump in the leaves at the same time.)

Add the cooked pasta, splash in a little soy sauce and toss everything together. Done!

This chow mein has very few ingredients, cooks up quickly and is great for a crowd. If you have leftovers, just stick it in the microwave the next day - the greens will not be as crisp [and the beef will be slightly tougher] but it'll still be good.

February 28, 2010

Baohaus

Occasion: Afternoon snack with Yining
Location: Baohaus on Rivington between Norfolk and Suffolk (baohausnyc.com)
Edibles: the Chairman Bao (with a special request for a lean piece of pork); a special Kobe beef bao; an order of bao fries with sesame sauce


Musings: Not a big fan of Bauhaus architecture. But pork buns - that I can get behind!

As it was just an afternoon snack, Yining and I split two bao and an order of the bao fries. I'm generally pretty easy to please when it comes to fried stuff but I found the bao fries underwhelming. I like the denser texture of man tou better for something like this. Also, the sesame sauce is a somewhat disturbing speckle-y grey color.

I am, however, a big fan of the bao. I'm really glad the guy behind the counter overheard my concerns about overly fatty pork - yes, there is such a thing. He very helpfully offered to find us a leaner piece, and it was perfect. The pork was tender, flavorful, and the bao had a bit of surprise from the cilantro and ground peanut garnishes. I'm not sure they're strictly authentic, but they are delicious.

I also quite liked the Kobe special bao, though I didn't think it was twice as good as the pork at twice the price. The skirt steak (which they were out of) is worth considering at $4.50. For variety's sake, you know?

Bottom line: very yummy, and great for a pick-me-up if you're in the area. Yining and I are considering the feasibility of our own little private delivery service. I'll let you eastsiders know if that works out....

February 27, 2010

Mmmm... pantry fried rice

Even when my cupboards are next to bare, I can cobble this dish together. A good one to throw together on the weekend - the leftovers microwave up great for lunch on Monday.

Pantry Fried Rice

10 strips of turkey bacon (lasts in the freezer forever; defrosted, it cooks in 1 minute in the microwave)
½ cup frozen corn (Trader Joe's sweet corn, if you can get it)
2 cups of cooked rice, hot or cold
a splash of soy sauce
4 eggs
oil

Cook the turkey bacon and give it a rough chop. In a fine-mesh strainer or colander, run the corn under some hot tap water and leave it aside to drain. Crack and beat the eggs. Have everything prepped and ready, because this dish cooks up in about three minutes once the oil hits the pan.

Heat a wok or a big sauté pan. When it's nice and hot, in quick succession, pour in a generous puddle of oil, pour in the beaten eggs and immediately dump in the rice as well. Stir / toss vigorously with a spatula, breaking up any large clumps of rice. Ideally, you want to coat the grains of rice with egg. What you do NOT want is large chunks of unincorporated scrambled eggs.

Fling in the turkey bacon and corn. Splash in a little soy sauce. Keep stirring / tossing. If you started with hot rice, you're pretty much done. If you started with cold rice, you'll want to give it another minute. Voilà!

Variations: If you happen to have scallions or shallots or parsley in your fridge, the first two can be flash-fried in the oil before the eggs go in and the parsley can be a garnish at the end. Instead of turkey bacon, use any salty meat - sausage, ripped-up prosciutto, ham, even smoked salmon can work. Leftover veggies from the night before? Throw those in too. Anything goes.

February 26, 2010

Gemma


Occasion: Abby says sayonara to Big Firm life!
Location: Gemma on Bowery between 2nd and Bond (gemmanyc.com)
Edibles: caponata crostini and focaccia robiola to share; orecchiette with broccoli rabe for the girls; I had the burrata app for my main

Musings: Gemma is a solid Italian restaurant with a nice casual vibe. As NYC restaurants go, it has a pretty big interior so seating is usually not a problem. They also have a long, wide bar perfect for an after-work or after-dinner drink.

I greatly enjoyed the very generous serving of caponata, studded with tart and pickley bits of green olive. The burrata was meh (nothing I've found in New York's come close to the very memorable one I had in Argentina), and so was the orecchiette. I think the way to go at Gemma is to get a whole bunch of apps and antipasti things to nibble on, instead of a proper meal.

Mostly, it was great to catch up with my girls. Abby, this day has been a long time coming and I can't wait to see what you do next!

February 20, 2010

Sha-lin Noodle House

Occasion: Post-figure-skating-practice and pre-women's hockey lunch
Location: Sha-lin Noodle House on W Broadway between Cambie and Ash
Edibles: stir-fried cutting noodles with tofu and vegetables; xa jiang dragging noodles; potstickers, half pork, half vegetarian (with a cabbage and carrot filling, like a cooked coleslaw); sautéed bok choi with garlic

Musings: Love this place!! Fresh noodles are among my favorite things to eat, and they do a really good variety of styles (and corresponding textures) at Sha-lin.

Cutting Noodles: The chef takes a block of refrigerated dough and uses a special triangular knife-tool thing to shave off noodles, shooting them straight into a pot of boiling water. Sort of like how you make spätzle, but with a much firmer, denser dough and much larger noodles. I really like the heft of these noodles, and they're excellent for stir-frying. The oily, fried noodles can be slippery little suckers - tricky to eat with chopsticks.

Dragging Noodles: The chef REALLY develops some gluten by repeatedly stretching the dough, and then twisting it back on itself. Sort of like how pulled taffy is made. The noodles themselves are made by doubling up one fat rope of dough, stretching it out (thus reducing the thickness by half), and repeating until the strands are about the thinness of spaghetti. The trick to this method - not that I've mastered it or anything - is getting a really good, elastic texture of dough, or the strands will break before they're thin enough. I like these noodles with a ground meat and bean sauce known as xa jiang. (Sha-lin does a nice sauce, but my mom's version with Chinese pickles and diced shiitake mushrooms is truly spectacular.)

Pushing Noodles (which we did not have): The chef rolls and folds up a sheet of dough, and cuts the noodles by hand. Similar to the soba method, but the chef cuts away from himself instead of slicing, hence the name.

The potstickers were a real hit with Karen and Josie. Sha-lin makes theirs with a yeasty, risen dough, and develops a nice crispy, golden brown crust on the bottoms. The quality of the fillings could be improved, but it's hard to complain when you're in the middle of chowing down on a piping hot plateful.

If memory serves, four dishes plus two beers apiece came out to under $25 a person. Good stuff!

[Note: This will be the only other Vancouver post. I also took Karen and Josie to old favorites Sun Sui Wah and Tapastree, and met up with Emily at Adonia to pass off some extra hockey tickets, but you can check out my old reviews using the links. Back to NYC for the next post.]

February 19, 2010

Banana Leaf

Occasion: Post-curling (for Karen, Josie and me) dinner with my high school buds, Tania, Bryan, Warren and Bib
Location: Banana Leaf on W Broadway between Willow and Laurel in Vancouver (bananaleaf-vancouver.com)
Edibles: papaya salad, satay and roti canai for the table; curried tofu for Karen; a chicken dish for Josie; a beef dish for Bryan

Musings: Olympic madness!! With wait times from one to three(!) hours for restaurants on Granville Island, we escaped back into town to look for a place less accessible to tourists.

We settled on Banana Leaf. I'd been to it once before, and their delicious papaya salad really made an impression - lots of flavors and textures, with a zippy dressing. Also, at just $7, two orders were enough for the whole table to share.

The rest of the apps and mains are decent enough, objectively speaking; our extended tromping about in the cold and damp made everything extra tasty.

[Note: Go Canada! Our curling team, skipped by the superb Kevin Martin, a.k.a. the Old Bear, whomped Denmark 10-3.]

February 9, 2010

Mmmm... subsidized cafeteria food

Breakfast: ham, cheese and mushroom omelet - $2.95
Lunch: mac and cheese and sweet potato fries - $1.40

That's a pretty sweet deal.

February 7, 2010

Mmmm... balsamic soy-glazed chicken

The second screening in our impromptu Cornball Film Festival - '80s classic Top Gun. Hosted by me, this evening called for a casual dinner to be eaten in front of the TV. (I don't have a dining room table, anyway). It's kind of a mutt menu in terms of international influences, but I think it went well together:

Balsamic Soy-Glazed Chicken
(a hybrid of the old Chinese recipe for Three Cups Chicken and Giada's Balsamic Chicken Drumettes)

12 chicken drumsticks (I cook almost exclusively with dark meat)
¾ cup soy sauce
¼ cup cooking wine
⅓ cup brown sugar and/or honey
1 tbsp sesame oil
10 whole peppercorns
1-2 cups water
⅓ cup good quality balsamic vinegar

[Notes: On the vinegar, know that when you're going to be reducing a liquid, it needs to be pretty good to start with. Otherwise, you'll just end up concentrating its bad qualities. Measurements on the braising liquid are approximate, as usual - tinker with it until it pleases you, is my method.]

Give the drumsticks a quick boil; discard the gunky cooking water. Remove the drumsticks to a nice, heavy-bottomed pot like my trusty yellow Le Creuset Dutch oven. Add the soy sauce, cooking wine, sesame oil, peppercorns and enough brown sugar or honey to give it a distinct sweetness (don't worry, it'll be countered by the balsamic later).

Pour in enough water to cover about two-thirds of the chicken. No need to go overboard, as the liquid will bubble up and cover a little more once you put the lid on, which you will be doing right about now. Plus, the more liquid you have, the more time you'll have to spend reducing it to a glaze later.

Simmer for a minimum of one hour, up to about three. You may want to jostle the chicken around once or twice to make sure everything's getting some quality time in the braising liquid.

When done, remove the chicken to a plate. Crank the burner and bring the braising liquid to a vigorous boil. Reduce until it's thick enough to coat the back of a spoon. Add the balsamic vinegar slowly, tasting frequently. Adjust any other flavors as you see fit. Cook a little longer to give the balsamic a chance to socialize. Return the chicken to the pot and give it a careful toss in the glaze. (It's hot!)

At this point, you can put the whole thing in a 200° oven to keep warm. (Did I mention you can make it in advance?) Give it another toss before serving, which you can do in the pot if it's a nice one, or otherwise decanted onto a big, communal platter. If you have it, sprinkle on some fresh, chopped parsley or some toasted sesame seeds to garnish.

Couscous with Dried Apricots

Making couscous is literally as easy as boiling water. I jazz it up a bit by adding a big pat of butter and using half chicken stock, half water for the amount of liquid recommended on the box. I also browned some shallots and chopped up some dried apricots and threw them in for interest.

Roasted Peppers, Zucchini and Mushrooms

The same method you'd use for roasting any vegetable. I chose these three to do together because they're all similarly high in water content and cook quickly. Chop into approximately the same size, toss in oil, salt and pepper, throw on a baking sheet and it's done in about 15-20 min. at 375°.

Dinner is served! After the movie, we finished off with generous helpings of the brownies and ice-cream contributed by Kathy and Atticus, and the sour cream apple pie contributed by Gerald and Mike. Thanks to all for coming, and for leaving a flatteringly small amount of leftovers!

Favorite quote: "Son, your ego's writing checks your body can't cash."