February 10, 2008

Lisbon City Guide



(Updated April 2014)

General / Getting Around: The neighborhoods of Lisbon are actually quite small, and close together. It will often be quickest to walk between them, though be forewarned that the streets can be very steep.

We never did have a good breakfast or lunch in Lisbon. I don't know if it's because those are meals that city dwellers eat at home, or if we just had bad luck. We had considerably better luck with dinner and bar-hopping. Note: Acceptance of credit cards was a bit spotty; if that's all you have left on you, ask first.

The neighborhood where we found the best food was Barrio Alto. It did involve navigating around some very small, winding, dimly lit and sometimes deserted back streets. We had dinner in the tiny Restaurante BarAlto and it was lovely. Lots of bars in the area to wander around, after.

Do not miss Tasca da Esquina - a very enthusiastic recommendation here. We learned of the place from the very nice women in the wine tasting room, and in a burst of travel magic, happened to see it from the tram we took right after. We impulsively jumped off the tram and were able to get a table with no reservation. It was so good we went back on our last night, just to be sure we ended on a good note. We got the 7-course tasting each time (€35), which is actually more like 9 courses because the dessert is a sampler of 3 (créme brulée, île flottante and chocolate mousse for us). Absolutely fantastic.

The wine tasting room on the Praça do Comércio and the port tasting room (affiliated) were also fun. The wine tasting was a wee bit expensive, but the single tasting of port gave us a good benchmark, and it was also here that I discovered Portuguese espumante (sparkling wine) which is delicious, cheap, but rarely exported because of low volumes.

The port tasting room can be hard to find, as it's inside a set of old gates, more or less across the little park with the great lookout point. If you're walking uphill and you hit the Independente, you've gone too far. The first day we went, the wine list was a bit more extensive than the second. The decor is fantastic, with a very retro, old school club feel. Closed on Sunday but open to midnight on Sat. (Sorry for the lack of links and names!)

The port tasting room also sold bottles. Unless you absolutely fall in love with a super specific rare thing, though, I'd get my port at the Lisbon airport - the duty-free has a very extensive selection of port, including the exact Dow's vintage I wanted. Saved me from having to check my bag. (Incidentally, transit through Frankfurt was no problem for the carry-on liquids rule. They have some machines that can test the bottles without having to open them.)

For the view, definitely hit Portas do Sol's massive terrace. It's just off the St. Jorge Castle lookout point. (If you're up there, you can't miss it.) They have two giant round cushion things under umbrellas - as soon as I saw it, I wanted to go to there. We managed to score one of the cushion things and spent a supremely enjoyable couple of hours slurping down a huge pitcher of sangria, snoozing, and taking in the stunning, stunning view.

February 9, 2008

Santiago / Valparaíso City Guides

(Updated 2015)

Santiago



DO NOT MISS:
  • Bocanáriz. Our favorite place in Santiago, hands down. We were in town seven days and ate here three times (albeit a little sheepishly that last time). They have a very deep local wine list and serve single glasses and tasting sizes on a lot of it. The food is uniformly excellent and easy to share. My favorites were the duck confit, followed by the vodka-celery seafood ceviche bowl.
OTHERS:
  • Sandwich restaurant: José Ramón 277. Found using my restaurant Spidey sense on a little street just around the corner from our apartment. This place was also worth a repeat visit. I very much enjoyed their lengua sandwich, and Karen raved about their vegetarian chickpea patty.
  • Sandwich lunch counter: Fuente Alemana. The sandwiches here are *massive.* Chileans love them some sandwiches.
  • Empanadas: Bombon Oriental. Their chicken empanada was the winning empanada for the trip. I'd pass on their baklava, though.
  • Ice-cream: Emporio La Rosa
  • Fancy French: Astrid y Gastón. We didn't actually end up eating here, as it was a bigger, richer meal than we were in the mood for that night. The location is sort of randomly in the middle of a suburb but the restaurant looked very nice and was recommended by Lonely Planet.
AVOID:
  • Mercado Central: More like Tourist Trap Central. Do not eat at any of the restaurants here!

GENERAL NOTES:

Like in Buenos Aires, people eat late in Santiago - like, 10pm is a normal dinnertime. Places do also tend to be closed unpredictably, so call ahead to make sure they're open on the day and time you want to go.

Chile is known for its wine - I loved the Carménère, loved the Chardonnay - but don't forget to check out the budding microbrew beer scene, influenced by German immigration into Chile. Kuntsmann and Kross were both excellent.

A good foodie souvenir to bring back for yourself and friends is merkén - a Mapuche spice blend containing smoked peppers and coriander. Unlike pisco and wine, you can throw 10 packets into your carry-on bag, no problem.

For a non-food activity, I highly recommend the Los Dominicos Handicraft Village. Shopping in town is otherwise underwhelming.

ACCOMMODATIONS:

We stayed at the Lastarria Apart-hotel and loved it. Our apartment had two bedrooms, two full baths, a kitchen, and a HUGE private patio. The neighborhood is great, with most of the restaurants I mentioned above within walking distance. Highly recommended.


Valparaíso



DO NOT MISS:
  • Ápice. Small, oft-updated menu, all local ingredients. Really sophisticated and intriguing flavor combinations. This place is tiny - make reservations.
  • Chilean cooking class with Boris. Boris is a character. Very cheerful and campy (though I'm pretty sure we brought the latter out in him). He was also very flexible about the dietary restrictions in our group. The class includes shopping for materials in the market, which is always fun. We made ceviche, empanadas, pastel de choclo, and leche asada. Cocktails and wine are also included. Well worth the time and money.
  • Bar de Pisco. Check out the national cocktail in all its forms here. If you ate dinner early, this place might be empty when you pass it. But don't be deceived - it fills up.
ALSO CHECK OUT:
  • Café Vinilo: Diner with a sort of a retro, boho, Brooklyn vibe. I had a nice stewed rabbit here. They make their own beer.
  • Pasta e Vino: Italian, on the fancier side.
  • Norma's: Nice prix fixe lunch.
  • Emiliana Vineyards. Its organic and biodynamic philosophy make for an interesting tour. They have lots of chickens and alpacas roaming around - very charming. And they make damn good wine too.
  • Indomita Vineyards. The wine is average but it's worth a visit just for their stunning, stunning view. No need to take the tour here, just get a tasting and sit out on the patio.

    February 8, 2008

    Marrakech City Guide


    (Updated 2011)

    DO NOT MISS:
    • Moroccan cooking class: Both Souk Cuisine and the Riad Kniza offer cooking classes. You get to go shopping in the market with Souk Cuisine, but you'll get more personalized attention at Kniza. Can't go wrong, either way.
    MOROCCAN:
    RIAD:
    • In addition to being a simply gorgeous, luxurious place to stay, Riad Le Clos des Arts serves an amazing breakfast to its guests, including homemade yogurt and fresh pastries. They can also serve you dinner the central courtyard upon request.
    ART GALLERY / LUNCH:
    Note: You can also search for other Marrakech blog entries using the tag "MAR-Marrakech."

    February 7, 2008

    Seoul City Guide


    TOFU:
    DUMPLINGS:
    MISC:
    Note: You can also search for other Seoul blog entries using the tag "KOR-Seoul."

    February 6, 2008

    Tokyo City Guide


    (Updated 2010)

    SUSHI:
    • Super fancy, with 3 Michelin stars: Sukiyabashi Jiro. I haven't been, but this place is definitely on my international restaurant bucket list. The omakase costs a breathtaking ¥30,000 (about $400); if you eat quickly, you could be in and out in 20 minutes.
    YAKITORI:
    • In addition to the regular variety of skewers, Momotaro serves chicken sashimi if you're feeling adventurous.
    RAMEN:
    • Menya Musashi
    • For other options, refer to the ramen map below, provided by the Keio Plaza Hotel. (It's dated March 2010 so double-check any place you want to go, to make sure it's still open.)


    MISC:
    • Activity / market: Tsukiji Fish Market
    Note: You can also search for other Tokyo blog entries using the tag "JPN-Tokyo."

    February 5, 2008

    Stockholm City Guide


    (Updated 2011)

    VEGETARIAN:
    • Hermans. You know it's good when a carnivore like me digs it.
    CARNIVOROUS:
    MISC:

    Note: You can also search for other Stockholm blog entries using the tag "SWE-Stockholm."

    February 4, 2008

    Buenos Aires City Guide


    (Updated 2009)

    DINING TIME:
    • People eat very, very late in Buenos Aires. And I say that as a New Yorker. If you go for dinner at 8:00 pm, you will see the staff just starting to set up. 10:00 pm is respectable, but it's not unusual for restaurants to seat tables at midnight.
    DO NOT MISS:
    • Casa Felix. Chef Diego Felix cooks out of his house (you're allowed to do that in Buenos Aires). Space is limited so book in advance. It's a pescetarian tasting menu, with a focus on local ingredients and indigenous cuisine. Absolutely amazing.
      • Diego cooks stateside too - he does a few private parties to subsidize his annual trip to the US. Read about my experience with that here. Get on his mailing list if this is something you might be interested in.
    STEAK:

    • It's delicious pretty much everywhere and cheap to boot. Be aware that locals like their steak cooked well done. To get medium rare, ask for "jugoso."
    THE LOCAL EXPERIENCE:
    • Enfundá La Mandolina. It helps if you speak Spanish, but I never let a thing like a foreign language get between me and a good meal.
    MISC:
    • Bakery: Best empanadas I had all trip were from Las Familias
    AVOID:
    • The dinner + tango show offered at El Viejo Almacén. Crazy overpriced and food that even an airline would be embarassed to serve. Blech.
    Note: You can also search for other Buenos Aires blog entries using the tag "ARG-BuenosAires."

    February 3, 2008

    Madrid City Guide


    (Updated 2011)

    DO NOT MISS:
    HOT CHOCOLATE AND CHURROS:
    BAR/RESTAURANT:
    Note: You can also search for other Madrid blog entries using the tag "ESP-Madrid."

    February 2, 2008

    Reykjavik City Guide


    (Updated 2011)

    FISH AND CHIPS:
    INDIAN:
    YOUR MILEAGE MAY VARY:
    • Sægreifinn's lobster soup. Mark Bittman loved it; I thought meh.
    • Fancy seafood: Fish Market. Yining and I were underwhelmed but Meredith loved it.

    Note: You can also search for other Reykjavik blog entries using the tag "ISL-Reykjavik."

    February 1, 2008

    Taipei City Guide


    (Updated 2014)

    DO NOT MISS:
    • Basically, in Taipei, the one place you can't miss is Din Tai Fung. To start, get a couple of steamers of xiao long bao. The pork is the classic, the crab is the luxury item and there's a fantastic newcomer to the party - the shrimp and loofah. It's delicate and light and perfect for giving your palate some relief from the richness of the pork or the crab.

    Aren't they bee-yoo-tiful?

    Bamboo with mayo

    Sautéed water convolvulus

    Shrimp fried rice

    Eight Treasure Rice

    BUBBLE TEA:
    • 50 Lan. Multiple locations. Look for the below logo. You can get all sorts of crazy bubble tea concoctions, including ones with Yakult or an entire creme caramel pudding mixed in. They will ask you to specify the level of sweetness (regular, 90%, 70%, 50%, 30%, 10% or none) and the amount of ice (regular, reduced or none). My beverage of choice here is the milk bubble tea with the small bubbles, reduced ice and 30% sugar. It's about $1 a cup.


    NOODLES:
    • Xa jiang mien at my little noodle stall - if it has a name, I don't know it. It's on Da-an Road, just off Xin-yi Road. There's a little strip of shops and the noodle stall is the last one before you get to a little children's playground. If you hit the 7-Eleven, you've gone too far. This one's a sentimental favorite; I've been eating these noodles since I was eight years old. The perfect amalgamation of chewy homemade noodles, a hearty meat sauce and some crunch and bite from braised greens and pickled lettuce. A bowl will run you just under $2.


    CASUAL:
    • Ban Mu Yuan at the corner of Da-An Road and Dongfeng Street. Grab some small dishes out of the refrigerated case in the back, order a few of their beef or veggie xian bing (sort of a Chinese Hot Pocket) and a bowl of congee.
    DESSERT:
    • Dong Qu Fen Yuan in Lane 216 off Zhong Xiao East Road. Best place to get a big carton of that weird Chinese ice dessert topped with various stewed beans and odd chewy bits. Also famous for their soft tofu. 


    FOR THE ADVENTUROUS:
    • The really quintessentially Taiwanese food cannot be easily documented. It's the street stalls, food carts, night markets. Be adventurous. If a stand is busy, that's a good sign. Order what everyone else orders and you should be okay. Don't ask too many questions.

    January 8, 2008

    Chicago City Guide


    (Updated 2014)

    ITALIAN:
    • Anteprima. *Love* this place. They let me rejigger their prix fixe so that I could have three courses of pasta.
    • Mia Francesca
    • Spacca Napoli for pizza. Really friendly; they will give you treats if you're stuck waiting too long.
    MEXICAN:
    POLISH:
    BRUNCH:
    • Little Goat. Top Chef winner Stephanie Izard's place.
    VEGETARIAN:
    DRINKS / LIVE JAZZ:
    • Green Mill: Awesome Jazz Age vibe - feels like Al Capone could sitting two tables over. There's a cover, but the music was amazing when I went. 

    January 7, 2008

    Portland City Guide


    (Updated 2017)

    BRUNCH:
    • Southern: Pine State Biscuits. Really good sausage gravy. Sadly, I didn't have the room to try their shrimp and grits. (Aug 2014 update: Went back and had the shrimp and grits. They were good, but I think the biscuit-based dishes are stronger. Bryan had the one with the fried chicken and it was pretty awesome. Get that.)
    • Mother's Bistro. Crazy long line, super popular. I wasn't blown away by the food, seemed like pretty standard brunch fare to me. Definitely yummy but it's your call whether it's worth the wait.
    DINNER:
    • New American: Q, f/k/a Veritable Quandry.
    • Shared plates: Tasty & Sons. Can get pricey but the food is really good. My favorite dish was their Toro spinach with pine nuts and golden raisins - SO delicious. We also had the skirt steak and the pork chop with bacon jam (huge portion on the latter). Staropramen on draft to wash everything down. Yum. (Warning that they don't have A/C if you're going in the scorching summer months.)
    • Peruvian: Andina. Flawless service. The ceviche is perfect for a balmy summer evening.
    BEER:
    • Belmont Station. A retail store that boasts over 1000 beers (local and international selections) and a dive-y bar room that has 30 drafts on tap. Very friendly staff.
    • Deschutes brew pub. It's right in the Pearl district so it's perfect for an afternoon pit stop if you're shopping in the area. Their sampler is a good way to go.
    • Stormbreaker. A local microbrewery. The sampler is definitely worth a try, and they have a nice, low-key outdoor space. I thought their take-away options were a bit on the expensive side; it probably works out better if you're local and already own a growler.
    • Lucky Labrador. Another local microbrew. The selection's a bit limited, particularly if you don't like IPAs, and I ended up getting a cherry cider from Washington. The space is a giant, shabby hall (in a good way) and they also have two legit dartboards.
    MISC:
    • Voodoo Doughnuts: If you want to avoid the 'round-the-block line at the original store, go to the Voodoo Too location. I personally thought their maple bacon doughnut was inferior to Lucky's in Vancouver, but Voodoo is a Portland institution.
    • Powell's Books: The most interesting part of their stock is the used books but they are scattered throughout the different rooms, sorted by category/genre and mixed in with the new books. I still had a great time browsing the shelves. Picked up a charmingly battered Brontë set with woodblock illustrations and a gorgeous Phaidon Spanish cookbook.
    • Halo Shoes: Stumbled on this awesome shoe store, really great inventory, all handmade. It's pricey, but I picked up a few sale pairs from their "last pair" shelf.

    January 6, 2008

    Seattle City Guide


    (Updated 2018)

    LUNCH / BRUNCH:
    • Turkish: Cafe Turko. I took a group of seven there and got unanimous raves. Some particular crowd pleasers included the muhammara (a divine walnut-based dip), the yam hummus, the beet salad and the spinch and feta börek. Very reasonable price-wise as well. Highly recommended. Also good for dinner.
    • Salumi is a real Seattle institution. Note that the sandwiches are GINORMOUS and a single one can easily feed two fairly hungry people. Monday is takeout only.
    • Swinery gives Salumi a real run for its money, imho. Just a bit of counter space for dine-in, tho.
    DINNER:
    • Tapas: List. This place has a very date-y (almost bordello-like) décor, but their happy hour special is amazing. From 4:00 to 6:30 every day, including weekends, and all day Sunday and Monday, it's half price on the food, $3.75 for wine by the glass and $2.95 for draught beer. My sister and I got the octopus salad, meatballs, sea bass, chicken with mushrooms, prawns, and a glass of wine each for a grand total of $43 before tip. Recommended enthusiastically.
    • Pizza: Stoneburner. Good pizza; nice chill vibe; in the very cute Ballard neighborhood.
    • Pizza: Delancey. Molly Orangette's place!
    • Fancy Italian: Raccolto, in West Seattle. You probably want to make a reso.
    • Cajun: Toulouse Petit. Three-course prix fixe for $39, or order à la carte. Excellent cocktails, including the Toulouse Sangria with tequila.
    • Xiao long bao: There are a bunch of Din Tai Fung locations in the Seattle area. It's not quite the same experience as the Taipei locations but if this is as close as you're going to get, then it's worth a visit. Not sure what the lines are like now but they used to be horrendous.
    DRINKS:
    • Bookstore Bar. Great place for a drink and chat. Happy hour is 2:00 to 6:00, 10:00 to midnight. We had spectacular $1 oysters and giant glasses of wine for $5.
    • Prost, in West Seattle. German beer hall, relaxed but not dive-y. A real neighborhood place.
    DESSERT:
    • Molly Moon's. I had their strawberry balsamic ice-cream topped with lemon curd. Fantastic.
    SHOPPING:

    January 5, 2008

    Boston City Guide


    FINE DINING:



    CAMBRIDGE:

    January 4, 2008

    Washington D.C. City Guide


    ITALIAN:
    EXOTIC:
    • Zaytinya does Greek / Lebanese / Turkish small plates. I don't think I've ever spelled their name right on the first try, but their feta and roasted pepper dip is divine.

    • Ba Bay
    • Cava Mezze
    • Ted's Bulletin
    • Hank's Oyster Bar
    • Ben's Chili Bowl





    January 3, 2008

    Toronto City Guide


    (Updated 2012)

    BRUNCH:
    • School Bakery & Cafe. Alfred and I shared the spiced Benedict ($14) and the blueberry pancakes ($13) and both were yummy. Nice outdoor patio area, well shaded with umbrellas.




    BURGER:
    • Burger Shoppe / BQM. We went to their Diner location. I had an excellent brisket Riverside burger ($11) but the real stunner was the "Über" poutine with chorizo and caramelized onions. Heart attack on a plate but Oh. My. God.


    ITALIAN:
    MISC:
    • Macarons: Nadège Patisserie. The chocolate macaron was so fudgy and delicious but the cassis was my favorite.

    January 2, 2008

    Vancouver City Guide


    (Current as of Mar 2018)

    LUNCH / BRUNCH:
    CHINESE:
    • Non-dim-sum Chinese brunch: Ningtu. Get the sesame rolls with minced pork filling. Their tea-smoked duck, while not strictly a brunch item, is also amazing; it's available as a whole or a half duck.
    • Dim sum: My personal favorite is Sun Sui Wah
    • Hand-made noodles: Sha-lin Noodle House
    • Dive-y Hong Kong cafe, cheap and casual: Angel
    • All-you-can-eat hot pot: Fatty Cow
    INDIAN:
    • Traditional: Tandoori Raj (f/k/a Original Tandoori King). Love the lamb korma and eggplant bhartha. Their takeout portions are significantly more generous, so this is a good option for a night in with a growler of microbrew.
    • Fancy: Vij's Rangoli. All the great flavors and creativity, with less fuss than at the flagship restaurant.
    JAPANESE:
    • Cheap, generous portions: Samurai (Fraser location only)
    • Izakaya: Zakkushi
    • Izakaya: Guu
    • Fancy sushi + izakaya: Kingyo
    CAMBODIAN / VIETNAMESE:
    • Phnom Penh. For the brave, the deep-fried frog legs are amazing. For the less brave, the butter beef is too. And the chicken wings, for everyone (the lemon dipping sauce really makes this dish).
    FRENCH:
    ITALIAN:
    SPANISH / TAPAS:
    • Sardine Can. Do not miss out on the sherry-cream mushrooms.
    • España is on the fancier side and can get pricey but the food is great.
    MIDDLE EASTERN:
    • Jamjar. They usually have several seasonal flavors of hummus. A good option for brunch too.
    MEXICAN / TACOS:
    • La Taqueria. My favorite ones are the carnitas and the lengua.
    WEST COAST:
    VEGETARIAN:
    • MeeT. I am a total carnivore - but SO addicted to their quinoa, sweet potato and kale salad. With a cup of the house chili, it makes for a pretty substantial meal.
    SEAFOOD:
    • Crab: Dungeness is great almost year-round in Vancouver, but Alaskan King crab season is truly legendary. The price for these monster crabs - live in tanks in most restaurants - dips below $20/lb, sometimes even below $15/lb, and Chinese restaurants do a particularly tasty preparation with tons of garlic called suan long. YUM!
    • Geoduck: A weird-looking but delicious creature in the clam family. It's delicious simply sliced and blanched, in a dipping sauce of soy and scallions. (The cleaning and prepping is tricky so best not attempt to cook it yourself if you have no experience with it.)
    • Like eating with your hands? Holy Crab
    • Best salmon burger in the city: Tipper
    FOR THE VIEW:
    • In a park (warning: these are a tad tourist-y): Stanley Park's Teahouse or QE Park's Seasons
    • A little further out: Beach House or Salmon House (unaffiliated) in West Vancouver. Enjoy a scenic drive over the Lions Gate Bridge on your way to dinner.
    AFTERNOON TEA:
    SWEETS AND PASTRIES:
    • Purebread. A veritable orgy of baked goods. Your sweet tooth will thank you. Your waistline, maybe not so much.
    • Earnest Ice Cream. I like to try the limited edition flavors, but their Tahitian Vanilla has a wonderfully restrained purity.
    • Aphrodite's Pie Shop. Their strawberry-rhubarb is my favorite.
    • Cheesecake Etc. They're open late, so it's a good place to catch up with old friends. My favorite thing to order is a frozen slice of the classic cheesecake with extra strawberry sauce.
    • Lucky's Doughnuts / 49th Parallel Coffeehouse. Get the espresso milkshake if it's in season.
    • New Town Bakery. Famous apple tarts and other Asian pastries.
    MISC:
    BARS:
    • Main St, preppy: Portland Craft
    • Main St, microbrew: Brassneck. Of the three Main Street micros, I like Brassneck's beer and selection the best. They have all the standards but I love them for their sours and seasonal fruit-infused beers.
    • Main St, microbrew: 33 Acres. Their beer is a bit hoppy for my taste but their cider is divine.
    • Gastown, wine: Salt - note: yes, the only entrance is off "Blood Alley"
    • Gastown, whiskey: Shebeen
    • Olympic Village, beer: Craft. Very deep beer menu and decent food. Can get a bit noisy in the converted warehouse space, and multiple rounds of drinks can add up to a painful bill.
    • Cambie or Commercial, Belgian: BierCraft. They have Delirium Tremens on tap.
    • Broadway or Commercial, nerdy: Storm Crow. A sci-fi fan's wet dream.
    • Canucks games and cheap chicken wings: Original Joe's (half price on Tues); The Pint ($4/lb on Wed)

    January 1, 2008

    New York City Guide


    (Updated 2014)

    ONE MEAL TO RULE THEM ALL:
    BEST OF THE REST:
    JAPANESE:
    • Sushi Yasuda
    • Fusion, fancy: Nobu. The lobster ceviche is out of this world. Excellent miso cod too.
    VIETNAMESE:
    MEXICAN:
    FRENCH:
    • JoJo, a.k.a. Jean-Georges-lite. Great 3-course prix fixe lunch.
    • Fancy seafood: Le Bernardin
    ITALIAN:
    SOUTHERN:
    BURGERS:
    • Shake Shack, Madison Square Park. I don't take with those newfangled locations. I'm convinced the line makes the burger taste better. My standard order is a double cheeseburger and strawberry milkshake.
    • Pulled pork sliders at Wilfie & Nell
    PIZZA:
    STREET FOOD:
    VERY SPECIFIC UNITASKERS:
    DESSERT:
    MARKETS:
    KITCHENWARES:
    NON-FOOD ACTIVITES:
    • Shakespeare in the Park in the summer - tickets are free
    • Met Opera $25 rush tickets in the fall, winter and spring
    • Jazz at Lincoln Center. The Rose Theatre overlooks Columbus Circle and it's gorgeous at night.
    • Brandy's Piano Bar. Singing starts at 9:30 every night but the best nights are Friday and Saturday. Grab a slice at Two Boots on the corner if you get the midnight munchies.