July 31, 2010

Mmmm... roasted pork tenderloin and corn salad

Another Movie Night in the books! Yining played host this time and screened The Princess Bride. She turned over her kitchen to me and, as always, I was happy to cook in a venue where I could abandon the dirty dishes to someone else's tender loving care. Our menu:

Roasted Pork Tenderloin

For six people, I roasted two tenderloins. It's a pretty simple process. Season the meat generously with salt and pepper. Sear off in a skillet to develop a nice brown crust. Yining happened to have a little leftover prosciutto in her fridge, and I draped each tenderloin with a piece. Finish cooking in a 375° oven for about 20 minutes, until the internal temperature reads 145° on a meat thermometer.

The key to a properly cooked piece of meat is letting it come COMPLETELY to room temperature before you start cooking. I can't emphasize this enough. I've been guilty of violating this rule myself, and it invariably bites me in the ass. (Refer to the turkey debacle from last Christmas.) The science is simple: if the interior of the roast is cold, it will take a much longer time to come up to temp, and you will end up overcooking the exterior to achieve it.

Mustard Sauce

1 tbsp dijon mustard
1 small container of Greek yogurt
salt to taste

Drain some of the liquid out of Greek yogurt. To do so, line a strainer with a few layers of cheesecloth if you're a fancy cook, or two sheets of kitchen paper towel if you're not. Let the yogurt drain for 15 minutes. In a dish, mix the yogurt with the mustard; season with salt. Done.

(I prefer the strong tang of Greek yogurt, but you can also use regular yogurt. You just have to strain out more liquid since it's runnier to begin with.)

Confetti Corn Salad

I thought the sweetness of summer corn would go great with the pork. In the fall, roasted apples with rosemary would be a nice side too.

6 ears of fresh corn, raw, with the kernels sliced off
2 red or orange bell peppers, de-seeded and diced
½ red onion onion, diced
a big bunch of cilantro, chopped
½ stick of butter
a splash of cider vinegar
S&P to taste

Sauté the corn kernels in the butter. You can cook the onion and the peppers or leave those raw for texture - your choice. Whatever you cook, let it come to room temperature before you toss in the other ingredients (to avoid inadvertently cooking them too).

This makes a gorgeous, colorful salad. Leftovers are great the next day.

Mascerated Berries

Strawberries these days are usually huge and picture perfect - and taste like nothing. For long-distance transportation, strawberries are picked early and ripened with ethylene gas in warehouses. If you cut one open and the bright red color is only skin deep, that's a sure sign. A sun-ripened berry is red all the way through.

To inject some flavor, I usually toss sliced strawberries in dark brown sugar and let them sit for a while before eating. This process is called masceration. A fancier version is below:

strawberries
blueberries
a drizzle of honey
a splash of port

Chop the strawberries. Combine with half the blueberries. Roughly mash the other half of the blueberries and add. Season with a good drizzle of honey and a splash of port. Let mascerate for at least half an hour, up to overnight. The pectin in the mashed-up blueberries with create a sort of glaze with the juices and the honey and port impart great flavor.

We served the berries with Costco mini brownies. Alternatively, spoon over angel's food or pound cake, yogurt or ice-cream.

Gerald and Mike, you're up next!

July 29, 2010

Top Chef DC, Ep. 7

Original Air Date: July 28, 2010


1) Ironic that they chose to offer $20,000 to the winning chef on a challenge that's based on ethics in lobbying.
2) From the looks of their proteins, The Palm strikes me as one of those really outdated restaurants still serving stuff that was cool in the '80s. The humongous steaks, 4lb lobsters? Very passé.
3) Nobody loves lobster more than me. Nobody. But when a lobster gets to 4lbs, I think it's earned its right to live. (Not to mention, they don't even taste as good as the little ones.)
4) As soon as I heard Andrea's plan for a vanilla-mustard sauce, I thought, "That takes more finesse than you've got, girlfriend." And I was right.
5) Did Alex steal Ed's pea purée? I think not. Too many cameras and people around for him to risk it.
6) I see Wardrobe's back on track - nice look on Padma for the Quickfire.

July 28, 2010

Otafuku

Occasion: Post-dinner snack with Winnie
Location: Otafuku on 9th between 2nd and 3rd
Edibles: Combo C - six pieces of takoyaki (described by on the menu as "hot savory wheat flour balls with a chopped piece of boiled octopus inside") and a half order of yakisoba (fried noodles)


Musings: A popular and busy food stall across the street from Robataya. (Methinks they get a fair bit of business from the restaurant's still-hungry diners.) They serve basically three things - the two things in our combo, and okonomiyaki, a sort of Japanese pancake.

Combo C was a wallet-friendly $9, and big enough to share. The takoyaki was topped with teriyaki sauce, some other creamy sauce, and bonito flakes. I wasn't crazy about the takoyaki - too soft and gluey for my taste. The yakisoba, however, was excellent. Studded with bits of shrimp and octopus, accompanied by a little pile of julienned pickled ginger, it was piping hot and flavorful. Yum.


The yakisoba is definitely worth a replay, and I will probably try the okonomiyaki next time as well. A good addition to the cheap eats repertoire.

Robataya

Occasion: Dinner with Winnie
Location: Robataya on 9th St between Stuyvesant and 2nd Ave (robataya-ny.com)
Edibles: grilled egglant; grilled onion; lamb chops; duck; Kobe beef; snow crab rice (they were out of our other choices - miso cod, smelts, portobello mushroom)


Musings: Robataya provided what, to me, is the quintessential Japanese restaurant experience: the food was exquisitely prepared, but the portions were miniscule and it was incredibly expensive. (Come to think of it, that's the quintessential NYC restaurant experience too.) Each item was between $5 (onion, eggplant) and $13 (Kobe), and typically was about four bites of food. To get a filling meal, I'm guessing you'd have to spend more than $100 a person. If you're looking for an Asian tapas sort of meal, I much prefer Yakitori Totto.

A lot of the dishes are cooked out front by two chefs. There's an incredibly elaborate staging area with all the proteins and veggies laid out. The chefs use long paddles to reach the raw materials and to serve the cooked dishes. If you're able to reserve a seat at the bar (we were not), it looks like it would be a good show.


I thought the Kobe beef was the weak link of the things we tried. It was barely seared and the rich veins of fat in the meat were still cold and solid. Everything else was good, and I only wished that there was more of it.

The snow crab rice ($15) was the highlight for me, really fragrant and hearty. I'd come back for just the rice and a beer. (Incidentally, snow crab is C. opilio - the stuff they fish on Deadliest Catch.)

July 27, 2010

The Meatball Shop

Occasion: Dinner with Ben
Location: The Meatball Shop on Stanton between Allen and Orchard (themeatballshop.com)
Edibles: the special "Bolognese" meatballs with spaghetti marinara and the chicken meatballs with seasonal greens and mushroom gravy

Musings: Meatballs are awesome. They just are. They probably rank around #4 on my list of all-time favorite eats - #1-3 being bacon, pie and lobsters. (I reserve the right to shuffle and revise this list at any time.)

I stumbled across a review for The Meatball Shop while clicking around on the interwebs and the idea of it just wouldn't leave my mind. Luckily, I was meeting Ben for dinner. I knew I could talk him into it. (And I did, easily.)

Like many other unitasker food places in NYC, The Meatball Shop was mobbed. We put down our name and went across the street to Móle for a margarita and a carnitas taco appetizer. The taco turned about to be somewhat ill-advised. On the one hand, I was starving and it was delicious, as always. It did, however, take up the room that might otherwise have been occupied by gingersnap ice-cream sandwiches for dessert. Oh, well. Next time.

(I'm pretty sure the hostess forgot about us, even though we left a cell number, but we were seated about 15 minutes after we circled back.)

Ben and I had a split vote on the meatballs. I really liked the special "Bolognese" ones, made with beef, mortadella and carrots. $11 for four meatballs and a "side" of spaghetti. The spaghetti was clearly a grocery-store-quality dried pasta, but cooked to a nice al dente.


Ben, who was skeptical about the chicken meatballs before dinner, ended up preferring them in our second dish. Called "Everything but the Kitchen Sink" on the menu, it's three meatballs with your choice of sauce served over market greens. $8 for that one. I found the assortment of greens, frankly, weird: we got sautéed spinach, some uncooked arugula, collard greens, broccoli and some corn shorn off the cob. I found the chicken meatballs slightly rubbery and a little heavy-handed on the fennel but Ben loved them.


If I have one criticism about the menu, it's that you can't mix and match meatballs (they have four kinds plus a daily special). I get that "one of each" orders would be a pain, but I think you should get to choose two kinds with an order of four.

All in all, an enthusiastic thumbs up. The food and drinks (we each had a pint) were very reasonably priced and the vibe was fun and casual. There are lots more meatballs in my future, for sure. Will budget stomach space for the gingersnap ice-cream sandwiches next time.

July 24, 2010

Luke's Lobster

Occasion: Post-movie (Despicable Me - awesome!) brunch with Robert and Yining
Location: Luke's Lobster on 7th St between 1st and A (lukeslobster.com) [Note: There's another location on the UES.]
Edibles: Yining and I had the lobster roll combo (with a drink and chips); Robert ordered one each of the lobster and crab rolls and was nice enough to let me have a nibble of the crab


Musings: Didn't match up to Pearl or Mary's in my book. First, the lobster meat in the roll is mostly lesser quality claw meat. Second, while there was a nice dill dressing on the lobster, there was no mayo - which is essential for me. Robert and Yining both liked it well enough and didn't miss the mayo at all, so it definitely depends on your personal tastes.

I liked the crab roll a lot - VERY generous with the crabmeat - and would definitely come back for that. (Ditto the shrimp roll, which nobody got but it looks great in the photo.)

Just so you know, the tiny shop has a couple of stools and some counter space for you to eat in but it's really more of a takeout place.

July 23, 2010

Top Chef DC, Ep. 6

Original Air Date: July 21, 2010


1) Why was foie gras on that Quickfire table? Way too easy! Someone had to cook duck testicles!!
2) When Tamesha, with her dead eyes, interviewed that she wanted to strangle Amanda with her bare hands, I was kinda scared for Amanda.
3) Ah, Tamesha - defeated by the scallop. Second only to dessert as a Top Chef Waterloo. I don't think she was the worst chef standing; unfortunately, she chose to suck on a day when the format really worked against her. I can see why Group B chose Kenny for the block, but there was no way the judges were going to send a strong contender home so early.

[P.S. Bravo, how about not putting a huge picture of the eliminiated cheftestant on your website? Spoiler much? Give people a couple of days to get to their DVR'ed shows!]

July 22, 2010

Waiter Rant: Thanks for the Tip

by "The Waiter" (now known to be Steve Dublanica)

My review: 3/5 stars

High stress, high turnover job with demanding customers, where you kinda get hooked on the money. Hmmm.... sounds like a job I used to have.

Maybe it's place I am in my life right now, but I found this book to be less about restaurants, and more about the bigger questions of life, love and career that we all face.

All in all, not quite as entertaining as Kitchen Confidential but worth a read. Happy to lend you my copy, which I found secondhand myself.

"The crowds pile in the door, and my section fills up instantly - two six tops, two deuces, and a four. I take care of the two tops first. The six tops are chattering away, so I have time to get to them. I cocktail and special the deuces, head over to the four, ask what they want from the bar, then loop back to the two tops and grab their dinner order. I walk briskly to the POS computer, key in the data, make the four top's alcoholic chemistry experiments, and drop them off. The six tops' heads are swiveling on their necks looking for the waiter. I hit them next. I take all their drink requests - wine and martinis - and take the four's dinner order on the return trip. The bell rings. The deuce's apps are up. The door chimes. It's a reservation. The hostess is gone, probably in the bathroom. I drop off the apps, greet the new arrivals, and seat them. Racing to the wine cellar, I grab two bottles of wine, return to the service bar, make six martinis, deliver the drinks to the first six top, run back, grab the bottles of wine, one red and one white, and pop them open at the other six. I tell the bus girl to bring an ice bucket. The kitchen bell rings furiously. The four's apps are up. The door chimes. More reservations. Where the hell's the hostess? The deuce signals for more bread. The lady at the four top needs another cosmo. Do you take Discover? What are the specials? I'm allergic to rosemary. Does this have to have garlic? Can you make me a veal Parmesan? It's hot in here. Can you do something about the AC? The phone rings. I glance at the caller ID. It's Fluvio. I decide to ignore it. He spent thousands of dollars installing video cameras; let him see what's going on for himself.

Suddenly, I feel a tug on my shoulder. It's Beth. She has tears in her eyes.

"What's the matter?"

"The computer's not working."

"Oh shit," I say, my sphincter achieving maximum compression."

July 20, 2010

Top Chef DC, Ep. 5

Original Air Date: July 14, 2010


1) Some pretty graphic stuff in the Quickfire - crabs being chopped in half, still twitching, Ed is baking them alive, someone's boiling them alive. Though I guess I shouldn't talk, lobster serial killer that I am.
2) Best line of the episode - Angelo: "Well, I had crabs. It just brought back bad memories." HA!
3) Tim's dish was basically my default roasted veg for, like, every dinner party I have. He should have thrown some apples in there, or an interesting spice. Something. You're a chef, dude. Also, the care you take when you cut something that you intend to serve that way is very different than when you intend to purée it. I can't believe he thought he'd sneak that by the judges.
4) Broccoli couscous - I like it. Simple, visually appealing. Will probably be appearing at a dinner party in the near future.
5) More love for Eric Ripert. It's obvious he knows food and has high standards, but he's always so measured and diplomatic with his comments. I want him to talk foodie to me. And he's a snazzy dresser too!

July 17, 2010

Lupa, part II

Occasion: Dinner with Elizabeth
Location: Lupa on Thompson between Houston and Bleecker (luparestaurant.com)
Edibles: We shared little dishes of broccoli rabe with ricotta, beets with pistachio sauce and sautéed summer squash and zucchini to start; I had the fresh pea pasta for my main; Elizabeth had the spaghetti amatriciana

Musings: I've raved about Lupa before - see the older review here. But I just wanted to add a little additional gushing about the broccoli rabe (the ricotta was the perfect flavor to offset the bitterness of the veg) and my pasta. I'm not usually one to describe food as tasting like colors and feelings and whatnot, but that pasta just tasted so vibrantly green and spring-like, I don't know how else to describe it. Bliss!

By the way, Travertine, let Lupa show you how to serve a proper quartino of wine.

July 13, 2010

Top Chef DC, Ep. 4

Original Air Date: July 7, 2010


1) Bryan! The producers obviously agreed with me - what this season needs is some Voltaggio.
2) What was up with that fugly shirt on Padma? Get it together, Wardrobe!
3) Interesting format idea for the Elimination. And by interesting, I mean half-baked. If the prize is a feature on the Hilton menu, shouldn't they have eliminated the worst chefs in each successive round as opposed to the best ones? Why didn't they give the chefs feedback between rounds? And shouldn't the winner have been picked from among the best of all three meals, instead of just the dinner (where the team also produced two sucky meals)? Concept clearly needs work.
4) Amanda, people don't want to partner with you, not because they think you can't cook, but because they think you're abrasive and obnoxious. Have some self-awareness, lady.

July 11, 2010

Tanzanian safari

Some food thoughts and images from Tanzania:

1) Salticrax. Heh heh. My former co-worker Eric wrote about it, and we found it!


It's surprisingly tasty, and goes great with an ice-cold Kili (see #2 below) and a half-melted chocolate bar dug out from the bottom of your bag. Our last "meal" in Tanzania.

2) Beer. Tanzanian beer is cheap and tasty. Peeled-off beer labels, which I pressed between the pages of my Lonely Planet, pictured below. We encountered three brands. Safari was the least noteworthy.


Serengeti was the strongest of the three, both in flavor and in alcohol content.


Kilimanjaro, which I would describe as a light-to-medium lager, ended up being our favorite. Our driver told us re Kilimanjaro: "If you can't climb it, drink it." We sure did drink it.


3) Food. We were mostly served Western food (meat and potatoes, pasta, etc.) so not too much to report from our regular meals. For lunch, we mostly had picnic boxes from whatever lodging we had departed from that morning. Hardboiled eggs, chocolate bars, rolls with cheese, samosas, etc. Incidentally, whenever there was a samosa, it was always the best item in the lunchbox. We did have one meal that seemed more like local cuisine than the others; it consisted of grilled chicken, beef stew, rice, hominy and beans, stewed plantains, a sort of coleslaw salad and a ball of polenta.

It really was a fantastic trip. Pictures of all the animals we saw - but did not eat - will be up on Facebook as soon as I cull through the 900+ pictures that Yining and I took.

July 1, 2010

Top Chef DC, Ep. 3

Original Air Date: June 30, 2010


1) I rarely encounter a pie I don't want to snarf down. But I don't think I'd like a dessert pie with curry. Or celery. Or tapioca and goat cheese. I mean, what the what?!
2) "It's a cop-out to say you're not a pastry chef. My grandmother's not a pastry chef either, and she can make a pie." BURN!
3) I'm still haven't figured out whether "magazine cover dish" is a compliment or insult coming from Jonathan Waxman, the king of sloppy plating.
4) Tracey been a disaster from the get-go. Definitely time for her to leave.
5) I've decided I don't like Amanda either. (Though I wouldn't mind trying her bbq ribs.) Why isn't there anyone to root for this season? There's a third Voltaggio sibling, right? Can she cook?