April 27, 2010

Ali Baba


Occasion: Low-key birthday dinner for my brother
Location: Ali Baba on 34th betweeen 2nd and 3rd (alibabaturkishcuisine.com)
Edibles: small mixed appetizer; I had the doner kebab; he had the Mediterranean salad with chicken (though he ordered it with lamb)

Musings: My brother didn't feel like a night out, so instead we ate takeout at home and watched the new episode of House. As he said, simple pleasures. It occurs to me he's actually pretty smart for a young'un. Happy 21st, kid!

Despite its cringe-worthy name, Ali Baba serves some pretty awesome food. I love their mixed appetitzer. I get it all the time - it's the perfect warm weather dinner. It's got hummus, patlican salatast (a smoked eggplant dip), another eggplant concoction with tomatoes, ispanak (sauteed spinach) and lebni (yogurt with walnuts and dill). It comes with half a wheel of bread for dipping, and there's usually enough food to last me for two meals. They do have a heavy hand with the garlic, so be forewarned.

If eating with a friend, it's nice to get one of the meat dishes to round out the meal. The doner kebab is a classic, of course. I also like the iskender kebab, which is the shaved lamb over a bed of fried bread, doused with tomato sauce and yogurt. It's sloppy and hearty and wonderful - a little lasagne-like even. Their adana is decent too, if sometimes a tad dry.

April 23, 2010

Top Chef Masters Season 2, Ep. 3

Original Air Date: April 21, 2010


1) The Real Housewives are some of the worst guest judges I've ever seen. A pork dish is not "bad" just because you don't like pork. A food critic has to have a certain amount of objectivity: was a dish cooked skillfully - regardless of whether or not you personally liked the ingredients?
2) On a related note, Mark must be one hell of a chef to pull off a mussel custards with figs. That just sounds gross.
3) Ludo is not the endearing nutter I remember from last season. Is it just me, or was everything he said really THAT douche-y? He could take a few lessons from Thierry on how to represent his country.
4) Also, his dish with the raw vegetables, miso peanuts and Guinness caramel was just ridiculous. Irish stew isn't that far off from boeuf bourguignon - I say he could have found a way to leverage his classical French training.
5) Based on Jonathan's previous performances, I can totally believe that his dish was delicious. However, it looked like he poured potato soup over a steak dinner. Presentation is definitely not his forte.
6) Wylie's food is not really my thing but I'm still sad he didn't advance. He's really creative, and goofy and lovable. His wanting to pan-fry a chocolate chip cookie to make it cook faster was my favorite moment from last season.

April 16, 2010

Uva


Occasion: Pre-Brandy's dinner with Rebecca, Tessa and Dale
Location: Uva on 2nd between 77th and 78th (uvawinebar.com)
Edibles: to start, we shared a burrata with yellow tomatoes, fava beans and a balsamic glaze (I continue to be obsessed with burrata); I had the beet salad; Dale had the chicken salad; Rebecca had the cavatelli al pesto; Tessa had the ravioli; we passed around a slice of girella al cioccolato (chocolate-hazelnut cake) for dessert

Musings: Location is everything. A place like Uva with a decent atmosphere and decent food would probably survive okay in the crowded field of the LES. But out in the barrens of the UES, it's packed to the rafters.

I don't think I've ever been here for an evening that didn't include Brandy's (one of my happy places, along with the shoe department at Bergdorf's). But though I wouldn't go out of my way to come here, they do make a decent showing. The wine list is long and varied. Our dishes were flavorful and all of the portions were generous. I was particularly impressed by Rebecca's cavatelli - the pasta was nicely plump and tasted homemade to me. And the cake was divine.

April 15, 2010

Top Chef Masters Season 2, Ep. 2

Original Air Date: April 14, 2010


1) Not to be a hypocrite but I find it hard to believe that Kelly Choi, who looks gaunt even on TV, eats grilled cheese sandwiches on a regular basis.
2) From Ethiopia to Sweden... I bet Marcus has some stories to tell.
3) I don't understand how grits "mac and cheese" style are not just cheese grits. Also, Oseland, it's not "deconstructed" just because the shrimp is on the side instead of on top of the grits.
4) Why did David choose to serve his custard in an eggshell? That sort of pretentious restaurant trick is the exact opposite of the down-to-earth spirit of soul food.
5) I like a good comeback story as much as the next guy but Carmen's dish sounded boring, quite frankly. Pity vote? Dunno. Monica, David and Thierry did kind of screw her over. Marcus may have been a dick for refusing to help out, but at least he didn't set her back.

[Postscript on 3: I watched a rerun and finally figured out this dish. It looks like Monica made a béchamel cheese sauce to ladle on top of plain grits. It makes James Oseland's comment make slightly more sense. But I still don't understand A) why she didn't just make cheese grits; and B) why this is "mac and cheese" style since mac has the cheese sauce is mixed.]

April 14, 2010

Artisanal

Occasion: Drinks and fondue to celebrate Michael's new job!
Location: Artisanal at 32nd and Park (artisanalbistro.com)
Edibles: Artisanal blend fondue with fingerling potatoes and kielbasa


Musings: A cheese-lover's heaven. Artisanal has a similar vibe to Balthazar, but it's not nearly as much of a pain to get into. There's a cheese cave with a single table inside - I've never reserved it, but it looks really fun for a special occasion.

The fondue is great for brunch or dinner. Besides the basket of bread cubes it comes with, I love to get the fingerling potatoes and the apples. Wasn't crazy about the Spam-like kielbasa we ordered this time. (You can get a salad to share if you're feeling guilty about the complete lack of vegetables. I promise I'll still respect you.)

April 11, 2010

Motorino - Pizza Crawl Stop #4


Location: Motorino on 12th St between 1st and 2nd (motorinopizza.com)
Edibles: cremini mushroom and sweet sausage pizza, margherita pizza


Musings: Our last stop. Impressively, nine of eleven people who started the day lasted to the finish line. No one was, by any stretch of the imagination, hungry at this point but many were able to find a second wind.

Motorino is a fancier (and more expensive) place than the others we went to on the crawl, aimed at the same foodie audience as a Pulino's or Otto. We luckily got there in the late afternoon when the restaurant was mostly empty. Still, they were pretty nice about pulling together four tables for our group. Not knowing about our shenanigans, they were incredulous that we ordered so little food for so many people (the pizzas at Motorino are individual-sized, around 10").

There was a brunch pizza with eggs that sounded intriguing, but we settled on the cremini and sweet sausage and the classic margherita. The toppings on both pizzas were high quality. I was a big fan of the cremini and sausage, personally. The margherita was workmanlike but I was too pizza'ed out to work up any real enthusiasm.

Their crust could use some work - while nice and chewy, it was also pretty salty and aggressively charred. This location is pretty new so perhaps they're still getting used to the idiosyncrasies of their pizza oven.

My tally: I managed a slice of each, but they were pretty puny so I'll count it as one. Grand total: 4½. I think that's pretty respectable.

Artichoke - Pizza Crawl Stop #3


Location: Artichoke on 14th St between 1st and 2nd (artichokepizza.com)
Edibles: the eponymous artichoke pizza and margherita pizza

Musings: Yet another beast. I LOVED the artichoke slice. Really gooey and cheesy and full of umami! It's basically pizza topped with spinach-artichoke dip. Yum. I had a slight criticism for the crust, which was on the thick side and tasted slightly stale (which couldn't have been the case since the line was insane). Because of the thick crust and the richness of the toppings, one of their mammoth slices can easily be shared between two people.


The margherita had a slightly thinner, crunchier, almost cracker-like crust. Of the three tomato sauces tasted so far, this one was the least memorable. (Though I was also the least hungry at Artichoke, so factor in some bias.) My overall feel was that the slice was constructed in a somewhat sloppy manner - definitely not as much attention to detail or finesse as Totonno's.

They had a daily special with crab, which I'd be interested to taste another time. Of the two we did have, the artichoke slice was by far the superior.

My tally: A half slice each of the artichoke and the margherita, for a running total of 3½.

L&B - Pizza Crawl Stop #2


Location: L&B Spumoni Gardens on 86th St between 10th and 11th St in Brooklyn (spumonigardens.com)
Edibles: thick-crust Sicilian pizza


Musings: A totally different beast. A whole rectangular pie yields twelve hefty slices. The dough is nice and yeasty and the sauce is solid, a little spicier than Totonno's. The cheese is under the sauce, a good ¼ inch of it. A slight ding for the quality of the cheese - it tasted like grocery store processed mozzarella. Though yummy in its own way, this one is breadier than I like my pizzas.

My tally: A whole slice here, for a running total of 2½. I think at this point Tom was up to a group high score of five.

Totonno's - Pizza Crawl Stop #1


Occasion: Gary's Second Annual Pizza Crawl! Participants included Jill and Tom, Kristina and Ryan, Amanda and Chris, Adrienne, Jeannie, Debby and me.
Location: Totonno's Pizzeria Napolitano on Neptune Ave between 15th and 16th St in Brooklyn (totonnos.com) [Note: another location in Manhattan on 2nd between 26th and 27th - just a hop and skip away from my apt!]
Edibles: a white pizza and a regular pizza with tomato sauce (pictured below)


Musings: A no-frills neighborhood place. We ran into a local boys' soccer team celebrating with pies and root beers. It was very cute.

I thought Totonno's standard pie was outstanding. Thin, chewy crust with a good snap to it. Good structural integrity - not soggy at all. Fresh and zesty tomato sauce. The white pie was also tasty, if a touch too garlicky for me.

A few caveats. First, getting there. The closest subway stop is Coney Island / Stillwell Ave - all the way at the end of the line on the N, Q, D and F. It takes a good hour to get there from Manhattan, plus it's a bit of walk from the stop. Also, they don't serve single slices, only whole pies.

As good as the pizza was, I'm probably not going to be making the trip out to this location very much. But I will definitely be visiting the Manhattan location soon for a comparison. Stay tuned.

My tally: Trying to pace myself, I had a half slice of the white and a full slice of the tomato. So 1½ slices and counting.

April 10, 2010

Mmmm... brownie husband


I saw this and immediately thought, "I could totally go for a Bacon Husband."

Also, I want to be Tina Fey when I grow up.

Falai [closed]


Occasion: Dinner with James, after a wander through the Whitney Biennial
Location: Falai on Clinton between Rivington and Stanton (falainyc.com) - Note: Falai is closed
Edibles: celery root soup with goat cheese amuse bouche; I had the polenta bianca with chicken liver and dried dates to start; James had the smoked salmon bonbon with pine-infused crème fraîche mousse; we shared the eggless pasta with wild boar ragu; I had the scallop main; James had the lamb main; pre-dessert bites of a tiny cannoli and chestnut cake with vanilla gelato and chamomile tea; we shared the chocolate brioche for an actual dessert

Musings: A very long, narrow restaurant. I had a great seat facing their kitchen. I must say I'm very impressed that they're able to run a fine-dining restaurant out of a kitchen smaller my apartment's, no exaggeration. They had three chefs crammed in there. (I think desserts were relegated to the basement.) While the chefs were clearly very disciplined and focused, I think the menu suffered slightly from their space limitations.

I practically swooned over my first course, though. What a stunner. The starchy blandness of the polenta was the perfect background for the earthy, velvety richness of the chicken liver. The dates provided a nice accent note of sweetness. Mmmm..... just fabulous. James' salmon dish was gorgeous - a real work of art - but I didn't think he was too impressed by it. It was also too small and fussy to share, always a demerit in my book.

The pasta dish was pretty amazing. The rustic-looking, hand-rolled noodles had a great chewy texture. I thought the dough had olive oil in it, but was informed that it's just flour and water. Apparently, Falai gets a pasta guru to come in during the day, sit in the basement and just make noodles by hand for hours at a time. As a side note, it's too bad they don't serve their pasta tasting on the weekend.

My scallop main was a disappointment. They definitely overcooked the scallops, and also failed to trim the rubbery side muscle off one of them - quite the faux pas for a fancy restaurant. I enjoyed my bite of the lamb dish but I did notice James sawing away at it. The chocolate dessert was yummy, so at least the meal ended on a good note.

Two critiques. First, too many things were served lukewarm or at room temp - the limitations of the small kitchen I mentioned above. When you've got no space, you've got to rely heavily on dishes and sides you can finish in advance. Second, they seemed to be much more concerned with how beautiful the dishes looked than how good they tasted (with the exception of the homely-looking but delicious pasta). I recommend a re-ordering of priorities.

Though it was a slightly uneven meal, I did enjoy most of what I ate. I'd come again for the polenta, and to try other pasta dishes.

April 9, 2010

Klee


Occasion: Dinner with Jill and Elizabeth
Location: Klee on 9th Ave between 22nd and 23rd (kleebrasserie.com)
Edibles: mini lobster rolls and the carbonara special for me; Elizabeth and Jill shared a cheese plate and the spätzle "mac and cheese"; Elizabeth also had the Alsatian pizza and Jill, pea soup

Musings: I'd give Klee a grade of B overall. In sum: nice atmosphere; hit and miss on the food; a bit pricey.

My mini lobster rolls were decent enough for the $9 price. Elizabeth and Jill did not have as much luck with their app, the mini pork buns. The filling was described as "pork confit" on the menu but was in actuality a slice of pork belly, 95% fat and 5% meat. Neither Elizabeth nor Jill found it remotely edible. Credit to the restaurant, they immediately took it back and off the bill.

Their replacement - the spätzle "mac and cheese" - was much better. Creamy and cheesy with tender homemade noodles, it was very indulgent and tasty, though pretty expensive at $15 for a medium-sized serving. My carbonara wasn't as good as the spätzle. It was a bit gloppy and had a strange and completely superfluous garnish of trout roe. I ordered the half portion and, for such a heavy dish, it was plenty.

I thought the little shot glasses of complimentary passionfruit punch at the end were a nice touch.

April 8, 2010

Mmmm... avocado

It's getting to be that time of year when avocados are cheap and plentiful! I've been keeping a few on hand in my fruit bowl for a quick snack. No cooking required, so it's perfect for when you charge in the front door, absolutely STARVING. Rich and buttery, avocados are a great spread for sandwiches. I sometimes use a generous smear in the place of mayo.

Two salad recipes below, one very easy, the other slightly trickier. When your ingredients are fresh and in season, you barely have to do anything to them at all. (But here's the rub: when you're barely cooking them, your ingredients have to be great.) The fat in avocados is the "good" kind, monounsaturated. According to Wikipedia, avocados are also relatively high in fiber and have more potassium than bananas.

Texture-wise, I like it when avocados are soft and unctuous. The easiest way to tell if one's ripe is to give it a little squeeze. Be gentle - apply the amount of force it would take to just bruise a peach. The avocado should have a definite give under your fingers. If the skin feels like it's pulled away from the fruit, it's a bit overripe and will not keep very long in your home. For eating, overripe is preferable to underripe - nothing's worse than an avocado that's hard and crunchy.

Shucking: Slice the avocado lengthwise, cutting around the pit. Twist to separate the two halves. I then (very carefully!) sink the heel of my knife into the pit and give it a twist to pop it out.

Tomato, Bocconcini and Avocado Salad

Slice a medium-sized grid into each avocado half, while still in the skin. Using a spoon, scoop out the avocado - it should come out in nice cubes. For every avocado you're using, dice 1 - 2 plum tomatoes (more flavorful than beefsteak, cheaper than hothouse) and a handful of bocconcini. If your bocconcini are very small, they may not need to be cut at all; the kind I got from the FreshDirect deli, about the size of cherry tomatoes, I sliced in half.

In a large bowl, combine your ingredients and pour in a glug of good olive oil and a dash of vinegar - red wine, white wine, cider, almost any kind besides plain white, which should only be used as a household cleaner, and balsamic, which is too murky and aggressive. (See how easy? You don't even have to make a proper vinaigrette.) Season with salt and pepper. Can throw in some fresh basil if you have it. Toss. Eat!

Avocado and Grapefruit Salad

Instead of cubing the avocado as above, I like to use the spoon to scoop out big parabolic discs. Here is the only tricky part - you have to suprême the grapefruit. Martha Stewart's instructions here. Dress the avocado and grapefruit segments with some juice squeezed from the de-fruited core, olive oil, salt and pepper. If you use a Ruby Red grapefruit the colors are just gorgeous, which is why I like to serve this salad spread out on a plate. Can garnish with a little grated parmesan.

Top Chef Masters Season 2, Ep. 1

Original Air Date: April 7, 2010
The Masters are back, baby!


1) Last season must have done well - prize money is WAY up this season. It looks like they're also tinkering with the format? I think it made more sense when the score was cumulative over the two events.
2) Clamato was a smart pick for a gas station ingredient. The crazy red dye Cheetos, not so much. Govind, you're pretty but dumb. And kind of whiny.
3) I think the rice cakes (Team Ana and Jerry) should have won the Quickfire for more creative use of ingredients. Bread pudding is hardly a stretch.
4) Wasn't really blown away by any of the Elimination dishes. None of the duos made a ton of sense together, and half the dishes sounded like they had pretty big execution issues. Or maybe it was just the way they edited the judges' comments to be so noncommital.
5) I swear Kelly and Gael have both had plastic surgery since last season. Kelly's eyes bug out a lot more than they used to, and Gael either had a bad chemical peel or I guess it could have been a bad sunburn.

April 7, 2010

Mmmm... braised short rib with tagliatelle

Folks, I have not been this excited about a recipe in a long time. Beef on the bone, tomatoes, wine, bacon.... as Ina would say, how bad can that be?! I sincerely hope that you will either make this for yourself, or talk me into making it for you. Creative bribery encouraged.

Braised Short Rib with Tagliatelle
(based on Giada's recipe)

2 lbs of beef short rib
4 slices thick-cut bacon
1 very large onion, chopped
5 carrots, peeled and chopped
14oz can of crushed tomatoes
1 can beef broth
½ bottle of a nice red wine with some personality
2 bay leaves
salt and pepper to taste
2 packets of fresh tagliatelle (or other wide noodle)

The short rib is a one-pot deal. Advance warning that it will be stewing for about 4 hours - you will want a nice heavy pot. I, of course, used my trusty yellow Le Creuset (as pictured in the crappy bb photo above).

Chop up the bacon and throw it into the pot over medium heat to render (i.e. cook out the fat). When the bacon is crispy and browned, remove the bacon (and reserve) but leave the fat.

Sear the short ribs in the bacon fat. If you've never seen one, they tend to be almost square. You want to be patient with this step, and develop a good brown crust on at least four of the six sides. It will pay dividends later. Browning = flavor. You will probably need to do this in two batches. Remove all the browned short ribs to a plate.

Without cleaning the pot, throw in the chopped carrots and onion. (Some fat will render from the short ribs too, which should provide ample cooking oil.) Cook them until they start to brown, too.

Deglaze with red wine. Give the bottom of the pot a good scraping to liberate all the tasty brown bits. Add the tomatoes, beef broth, bay leaves. Season cautiously with salt and pepper (watch the salt in particular - the beef broth may have a little or a lot, you will be reducing the liquid, and you will be adding the bacon back later). Return the short ribs to the pot; the meat should mostly be submerged in the braising liquid. Bring to a simmer and cover.

Cook covered for 1.5 hours. Check on it once in a while to make sure nothing's sticking to the bottom. At the end of that time, uncover and check seasoning (it should still be somewhat under-salted at this point).

Cook for *another* 1.5 hours, uncovered. The braising liquid will gradually reduce and thicken into a sauce - it's okay if the beef is no longer fully submerged. As before, stir once in a while. [During the long simmer, you might pass the time by watching a movie or two, and enjoying the half bottle of wine you conveniently have on hand. You can always open another one for dinner.]

Noodles: About 20 min before the beef is due to be done, put a big pot of water on to boil. I strongly recommend using a fresh pasta - the grocery store kind, usually found in a refrigerated case near the dairy and eggs, is fine. Get the widest noodle you can find - tagliatelle ideally but fettucine will do. Cook the pasta al dente.

While the pasta is cooking, remove the short ribs and shred the meat using two forks. The meat should fall off the bone and be very tender and easy to shred. Return the shredded meat to the pot with the sauce, and fold in. Sprinkle in the bacon. Check seasoning one last time.

With this dish, I like to mix the pasta and the sauce in the pot and serve it pre-mixed, as opposed to ladling the sauce over the plain noodles. Garnish with a little grated parmesan or chopped parsley if you have it. Alternatively, Giada grates on a little dark chocolate.

The full recipe - 2 lbs of short ribs and two packets of pasta - will make about six generous servings. You could theoretically halve it. But a full recipe is about the same amount of work, so why not make extra? The shredded short rib sauce refrigerates beautifully and will keep a little over a week - it can be two meals for three people, three meals for two people or even six meals for one person, provided you're not the kind of person who gets tired of eating one dish over and over.

(Important Note: If you're refrigerating the sauce, DON'T put in the bacon until you're reheating it to eat. If you leave the bacon soaking in the sauce, the salt will leach out and make your sauce too salty. I learned this one the hard way. Can be ameliorated with a touch of sugar, but better not to mess it up in the first place.)

Alternate serving suggestion: Instead of shredding the short rib, you can serve a whole one (or two) nestled in a bed of polenta or mashed potatoes, and spoon some sauce over it.

Enjoy!

April 3, 2010

Pulino's


Occasion: Pre-opera (Partenope) dinner with Melissa, Tony and Alicia
Location: Pulino's on Bowery and E Houston (pulinosny.com)
Edibles: gamberi (shrimp) pizza; salsiccia (sausage and broccoli rabe) pizza; fazzoletti (a crêpe-like creation stuffed with cheese and lamb ragu); asparagus with ramps, rhubarb and black pepper ricotta; a skillet of sausage and peppers - all eaten family-style

Musings: When I first walked in, I had the strongest sense of déjà vu. The backlit bar, the white tile, the pillars, the converted warehouse feel - all of it a dead ringer for Schiller's (which, as far as I know, is unaffiliated). It was pretty crowded and hectic, even though dinner service didn't officially begin for another 20 minutes, at 6:00. Speaking of which, a little suggestion: start earlier.

If you're going to identify yourself primarily as a pizzeria - and a gourmet, pricey one at that - your pizza's got to be outstanding. I found Pulino's to have good-quality toppings, but the crust definitely needs work. The relatively small pie was extremely soggy in the middle; if you try to pick up a slice, it just flops over and falls apart in your hand.

I thought the asparagus dish had too many components that didn't quite come together. The fazzoletti was decent but nothing exciting. The sausage and peppers I liked, but it came to the table sort of room temperature and I would have liked it hotter.

Pulino's is pretty new and, in my opinion, still working out a lot of kinks. This place has gotten a lot of press and will draw flocks of New York's fickle foodies for the next few weeks. My rec would be to wait until the furor dies down and see if they've really got the goods to stay open long term.

Executive chef Nate Appleman, of "The Next Iron Chef" fame, pictured with Alicia and Mel.

Union Square market


Edibles: fresh apple cider; a bag of apple cider donuts; a giant ginger cookie; a block of pumpkin gingerbread; slabs of a sharp cheddar and an aged alpine cheese; a Granny Smith apple

Sunshine!! The kind that makes you want to fling out your arms and burst into song! Still a tad chilly, but more than tolerable with the help of a nice warm scarf and some legwarmers. Sylvia and I wandered, grazed, gossiped about boys. A perfect afternoon.

(We also came across a public group pillowfight in the square. Only in New York.)


April 2, 2010

Northern Spy Food Co.


Occasion: Dinner with Winnie (in from LA) and Gabrielle
Location: Northern Spy on 12th between A and B (northernspyfoodco.com)
Edibles: I had the polenta with greens, mushrooms, crème fraîche and a poached egg on top; Gabrielle had the sweet potato risotto; Winnie had the pork terrine followed by the pork loin main; we all shared the meatball special, and also split a slice of carrot cake for dessert


Musings: Great little neighborhood spot. I loved the décor, from the robin's-egg-blue bench to the wallpaper panels to the charmingly distressed wood everywhere (probably fake, but still).

I saw someone tucking into a plate of meatballs when we walked in and immediately fixated on them. I'm pleased to report that they were flavorful and satisfyingly hearty - less pleased that they're not a regular menu item. My polenta dish was a good gap-filler. (No, that's not quite fair. It's a good dish in its own right but could only play second fiddle tonight, what with me in a meatball haze.)

The cake was a little heavy and piled with too much frosting for my taste. For drinks, I can recommend their house cider and Winnie raved about the homemade blood orange seltzer.