February 28, 2010

Baohaus

Occasion: Afternoon snack with Yining
Location: Baohaus on Rivington between Norfolk and Suffolk (baohausnyc.com)
Edibles: the Chairman Bao (with a special request for a lean piece of pork); a special Kobe beef bao; an order of bao fries with sesame sauce


Musings: Not a big fan of Bauhaus architecture. But pork buns - that I can get behind!

As it was just an afternoon snack, Yining and I split two bao and an order of the bao fries. I'm generally pretty easy to please when it comes to fried stuff but I found the bao fries underwhelming. I like the denser texture of man tou better for something like this. Also, the sesame sauce is a somewhat disturbing speckle-y grey color.

I am, however, a big fan of the bao. I'm really glad the guy behind the counter overheard my concerns about overly fatty pork - yes, there is such a thing. He very helpfully offered to find us a leaner piece, and it was perfect. The pork was tender, flavorful, and the bao had a bit of surprise from the cilantro and ground peanut garnishes. I'm not sure they're strictly authentic, but they are delicious.

I also quite liked the Kobe special bao, though I didn't think it was twice as good as the pork at twice the price. The skirt steak (which they were out of) is worth considering at $4.50. For variety's sake, you know?

Bottom line: very yummy, and great for a pick-me-up if you're in the area. Yining and I are considering the feasibility of our own little private delivery service. I'll let you eastsiders know if that works out....

February 27, 2010

Mmmm... pantry fried rice

Even when my cupboards are next to bare, I can cobble this dish together. A good one to throw together on the weekend - the leftovers microwave up great for lunch on Monday.

Pantry Fried Rice

10 strips of turkey bacon (lasts in the freezer forever; defrosted, it cooks in 1 minute in the microwave)
½ cup frozen corn (Trader Joe's sweet corn, if you can get it)
2 cups of cooked rice, hot or cold
a splash of soy sauce
4 eggs
oil

Cook the turkey bacon and give it a rough chop. In a fine-mesh strainer or colander, run the corn under some hot tap water and leave it aside to drain. Crack and beat the eggs. Have everything prepped and ready, because this dish cooks up in about three minutes once the oil hits the pan.

Heat a wok or a big sauté pan. When it's nice and hot, in quick succession, pour in a generous puddle of oil, pour in the beaten eggs and immediately dump in the rice as well. Stir / toss vigorously with a spatula, breaking up any large clumps of rice. Ideally, you want to coat the grains of rice with egg. What you do NOT want is large chunks of unincorporated scrambled eggs.

Fling in the turkey bacon and corn. Splash in a little soy sauce. Keep stirring / tossing. If you started with hot rice, you're pretty much done. If you started with cold rice, you'll want to give it another minute. Voilà!

Variations: If you happen to have scallions or shallots or parsley in your fridge, the first two can be flash-fried in the oil before the eggs go in and the parsley can be a garnish at the end. Instead of turkey bacon, use any salty meat - sausage, ripped-up prosciutto, ham, even smoked salmon can work. Leftover veggies from the night before? Throw those in too. Anything goes.

February 26, 2010

Gemma


Occasion: Abby says sayonara to Big Firm life!
Location: Gemma on Bowery between 2nd and Bond (gemmanyc.com)
Edibles: caponata crostini and focaccia robiola to share; orecchiette with broccoli rabe for the girls; I had the burrata app for my main

Musings: Gemma is a solid Italian restaurant with a nice casual vibe. As NYC restaurants go, it has a pretty big interior so seating is usually not a problem. They also have a long, wide bar perfect for an after-work or after-dinner drink.

I greatly enjoyed the very generous serving of caponata, studded with tart and pickley bits of green olive. The burrata was meh (nothing I've found in New York's come close to the very memorable one I had in Argentina), and so was the orecchiette. I think the way to go at Gemma is to get a whole bunch of apps and antipasti things to nibble on, instead of a proper meal.

Mostly, it was great to catch up with my girls. Abby, this day has been a long time coming and I can't wait to see what you do next!

February 20, 2010

Sha-lin Noodle House

Occasion: Post-figure-skating-practice and pre-women's hockey lunch
Location: Sha-lin Noodle House on W Broadway between Cambie and Ash
Edibles: stir-fried cutting noodles with tofu and vegetables; xa jiang dragging noodles; potstickers, half pork, half vegetarian (with a cabbage and carrot filling, like a cooked coleslaw); sautéed bok choi with garlic

Musings: Love this place!! Fresh noodles are among my favorite things to eat, and they do a really good variety of styles (and corresponding textures) at Sha-lin.

Cutting Noodles: The chef takes a block of refrigerated dough and uses a special triangular knife-tool thing to shave off noodles, shooting them straight into a pot of boiling water. Sort of like how you make spätzle, but with a much firmer, denser dough and much larger noodles. I really like the heft of these noodles, and they're excellent for stir-frying. The oily, fried noodles can be slippery little suckers - tricky to eat with chopsticks.

Dragging Noodles: The chef REALLY develops some gluten by repeatedly stretching the dough, and then twisting it back on itself. Sort of like how pulled taffy is made. The noodles themselves are made by doubling up one fat rope of dough, stretching it out (thus reducing the thickness by half), and repeating until the strands are about the thinness of spaghetti. The trick to this method - not that I've mastered it or anything - is getting a really good, elastic texture of dough, or the strands will break before they're thin enough. I like these noodles with a ground meat and bean sauce known as xa jiang. (Sha-lin does a nice sauce, but my mom's version with Chinese pickles and diced shiitake mushrooms is truly spectacular.)

Pushing Noodles (which we did not have): The chef rolls and folds up a sheet of dough, and cuts the noodles by hand. Similar to the soba method, but the chef cuts away from himself instead of slicing, hence the name.

The potstickers were a real hit with Karen and Josie. Sha-lin makes theirs with a yeasty, risen dough, and develops a nice crispy, golden brown crust on the bottoms. The quality of the fillings could be improved, but it's hard to complain when you're in the middle of chowing down on a piping hot plateful.

If memory serves, four dishes plus two beers apiece came out to under $25 a person. Good stuff!

[Note: This will be the only other Vancouver post. I also took Karen and Josie to old favorites Sun Sui Wah and Tapastree, and met up with Emily at Adonia to pass off some extra hockey tickets, but you can check out my old reviews using the links. Back to NYC for the next post.]

February 19, 2010

Banana Leaf

Occasion: Post-curling (for Karen, Josie and me) dinner with my high school buds, Tania, Bryan, Warren and Bib
Location: Banana Leaf on W Broadway between Willow and Laurel in Vancouver (bananaleaf-vancouver.com)
Edibles: papaya salad, satay and roti canai for the table; curried tofu for Karen; a chicken dish for Josie; a beef dish for Bryan

Musings: Olympic madness!! With wait times from one to three(!) hours for restaurants on Granville Island, we escaped back into town to look for a place less accessible to tourists.

We settled on Banana Leaf. I'd been to it once before, and their delicious papaya salad really made an impression - lots of flavors and textures, with a zippy dressing. Also, at just $7, two orders were enough for the whole table to share.

The rest of the apps and mains are decent enough, objectively speaking; our extended tromping about in the cold and damp made everything extra tasty.

[Note: Go Canada! Our curling team, skipped by the superb Kevin Martin, a.k.a. the Old Bear, whomped Denmark 10-3.]

February 9, 2010

Mmmm... subsidized cafeteria food

Breakfast: ham, cheese and mushroom omelet - $2.95
Lunch: mac and cheese and sweet potato fries - $1.40

That's a pretty sweet deal.

February 7, 2010

Mmmm... balsamic soy-glazed chicken

The second screening in our impromptu Cornball Film Festival - '80s classic Top Gun. Hosted by me, this evening called for a casual dinner to be eaten in front of the TV. (I don't have a dining room table, anyway). It's kind of a mutt menu in terms of international influences, but I think it went well together:

Balsamic Soy-Glazed Chicken
(a hybrid of the old Chinese recipe for Three Cups Chicken and Giada's Balsamic Chicken Drumettes)

12 chicken drumsticks (I cook almost exclusively with dark meat)
¾ cup soy sauce
¼ cup cooking wine
⅓ cup brown sugar and/or honey
1 tbsp sesame oil
10 whole peppercorns
1-2 cups water
⅓ cup good quality balsamic vinegar

[Notes: On the vinegar, know that when you're going to be reducing a liquid, it needs to be pretty good to start with. Otherwise, you'll just end up concentrating its bad qualities. Measurements on the braising liquid are approximate, as usual - tinker with it until it pleases you, is my method.]

Give the drumsticks a quick boil; discard the gunky cooking water. Remove the drumsticks to a nice, heavy-bottomed pot like my trusty yellow Le Creuset Dutch oven. Add the soy sauce, cooking wine, sesame oil, peppercorns and enough brown sugar or honey to give it a distinct sweetness (don't worry, it'll be countered by the balsamic later).

Pour in enough water to cover about two-thirds of the chicken. No need to go overboard, as the liquid will bubble up and cover a little more once you put the lid on, which you will be doing right about now. Plus, the more liquid you have, the more time you'll have to spend reducing it to a glaze later.

Simmer for a minimum of one hour, up to about three. You may want to jostle the chicken around once or twice to make sure everything's getting some quality time in the braising liquid.

When done, remove the chicken to a plate. Crank the burner and bring the braising liquid to a vigorous boil. Reduce until it's thick enough to coat the back of a spoon. Add the balsamic vinegar slowly, tasting frequently. Adjust any other flavors as you see fit. Cook a little longer to give the balsamic a chance to socialize. Return the chicken to the pot and give it a careful toss in the glaze. (It's hot!)

At this point, you can put the whole thing in a 200° oven to keep warm. (Did I mention you can make it in advance?) Give it another toss before serving, which you can do in the pot if it's a nice one, or otherwise decanted onto a big, communal platter. If you have it, sprinkle on some fresh, chopped parsley or some toasted sesame seeds to garnish.

Couscous with Dried Apricots

Making couscous is literally as easy as boiling water. I jazz it up a bit by adding a big pat of butter and using half chicken stock, half water for the amount of liquid recommended on the box. I also browned some shallots and chopped up some dried apricots and threw them in for interest.

Roasted Peppers, Zucchini and Mushrooms

The same method you'd use for roasting any vegetable. I chose these three to do together because they're all similarly high in water content and cook quickly. Chop into approximately the same size, toss in oil, salt and pepper, throw on a baking sheet and it's done in about 15-20 min. at 375°.

Dinner is served! After the movie, we finished off with generous helpings of the brownies and ice-cream contributed by Kathy and Atticus, and the sour cream apple pie contributed by Gerald and Mike. Thanks to all for coming, and for leaving a flatteringly small amount of leftovers!

Favorite quote: "Son, your ego's writing checks your body can't cash."