November 4, 2010
Mmmm... homemade dumplings (jiaozi / gyoza)
Mom's Dumplings
2 lbs of ground pork
½ lb of shrimp, shelled, de-veined and chopped
1 - 2 napa cabbages (a.k.a. Chinese cabbage or bok choi), finely chopped
2 eggs
sesame oil
soy sauce
rice wine (I've substituted vodka in a pinch)
scallions, finely chopped
ginger, grated (I use a rasp)
salt and pepper
~300 dumpling wrappers
The flavoring is highly, highly subjective. I personally like a lot of ginger, sesame oil and pepper. My mom likes it more delicately seasoned. One thing to consider is that you'll want to salt it on the heavy side, as salt leaches out during the boiling, and what tastes a bit salty when freshly made will end up just right.
Pork: Season with some splashes of sesame oil, soy sauce, rice wine, the ginger and scallions, and some salt and pepper. (If you're not comfortable seasoning without measurements, take it easy - you can always add more after testing it.) Add the chopped shrimp. Crack in two eggs as a binding agent. Let the pork mixture marinate a bit while you deal with the napa cabbage.
Napa cabbage: Fair warning, if you chop the cabbage by hand, it will take a bleeping long time. We discovered that the cross-cut blade on a mandoline works great - you just hold the whole cabbage by the base and grate the whole head. Don't try to do this step in a food processor - it will pulp your vegetable too badly.
When it's all chopped, salt it generously to draw out some of the water (regular table salt will do here - no point in wasting your nice kosher or sea salts). Give it a bit of a massage to work in the salt, and after 5-10 minutes, squeeze out as much water as you can, one small lump at a time in your hands. If you have a potato ricer, it's perfect for this task. Mix the dehydrated cabbage with the pork.
Testing: Make a small patty out of the filling and fry it in a small skillet until fully cooked. Taste for seasoning - correct as needed. Make another test patty if you were pretty far off the first time; no need if you just did a little tweaking.
Wrappers: For our semi-annual dumpling-making enterprise, my mom brings fresh wrappers from Vancouver. (There's a shop under the Granville Bridge that makes fresh noodles that makes them.) They're fantastic: just the right thickness and really resilient and elastic.
You can get frozen wrappers from any Chinese grocer. Be sure to get the round, white wrappers. (The square, yellowish ones are for wontons.) We've experimented with a few brands, but found them all to be somewhat substandard - on the thin side, very dry and brittle. But you can make do with them.
As a final option, you can make your own wrappers. The dough is just flour and hot water. You want to knead it a fair amount to develop the gluten. It'll be a hard, dense texture, far stiffer than bread or pasta dough. The tricky part is to find someone who's handy with a rolling pin to roll out small rounds about 4 inches in diameter. This option has a fairly high degree of difficulty and I wouldn't recommend it for beginners. You would definitely have a head start if you're an experienced baker with a good "touch" for doughs.
The amount of filling in the recipe above will make about 300 dumplings. (It's not as much as it sounds! They go quick!)
Assembly: Place about a tablespoon of filling in the middle of the wrapper, wet the edges of the wrapper with water, fold over and seal. The clumsiest seal is just to press the edges together, flat. My dad starts at one end and makes little pinch-pleats until he gets to the other. My mom pinches the wrapper together in the middle, then seals up the two open ends in a gentle crescent shape.
Place line them up on a cookie sheet (in a single layer) and freeze for one to five hours. Then you can put them in plastic freezer bags for long-term storage. Make sure they're pretty solidly frozen before you move them into bags or they will smush and fuse together under their own weight and be very hard to separate later. The dumplings will last about six months in the deep freeze.
Cooking: Bring a big pot of water to the boil. You want plenty of water for them to swim around in, or they'll stick horribly to each other. You want to stir the water gently and continuously from the moment they go in until they start to float on their own. If they sink to the bottom of the pot and stay there, they will also stick horribly and you will rip the wrapper and boil all the flavor out of the filling. Suboptimal, after all the work you went through to make them. They're done a couple of minutes after they're all floating on the surface.
It obviously takes less time too cook a fresh dumpling the day you make them than one that's been frozen solid. If you're unsure how long to boil something of this size so it's definitely cooked all the way through, best give it a few extra minutes just to be sure.
To eat, I like a simple dipping sauce of either sesame oil and soy sauce, or Chinese black rice vinegar and soy sauce. My mom adds a good squirt of sriracha. If it's for a meal, I'd say portion about 15 per person (though it can be up to 30 or 40 if you're feeding a bottomless pit of a teenager).
There's a Chinese custom to pour some of the cooking water into whatever sauce you have left over, and drink it as a soup. I do it once in a while myself, but this part is most definitely optional.
Cooked leftovers: Keep them on a plate, so that they're not touching. Cover with cling film and refrigerate. The next day, you can put them in a skillet with a little oil and make potstickers. (Note that you can't make potsickers directly from frozen so you might want to boil some extras on purpose.)
Labels:
Asian-cuisine,
Chinese,
recipe
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